[TR] Pigeon Spire- West Ridge 8/2/2006

[Otto]

Climb: Pigeon Spire-West Ridge

 

Date of Climb: 8/2/2006

 

Trip Report:

Madcap and I went to the Bugaboos hoping to do a route on the West side of North Howser Spire, but we arrived at the onset of a period of unsettled weather. The forecast didn't get any better than a 50/50 proposition each day, so we had to change our ideas to include a series of day trips.

 

The first day we took an exploratory trip to the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col, and backed off at the schrund because of the 4-6 inches of new, unconsolidated snow on the slope above. The next day we climbed McTech Arete, and Madcap did a great job of leading the fine 10a crack on the second pitch.

 

The next day we went to Pigeon Spire, and found the col nicely consolidated and easy traveling. We climbed the famous West Ridge along with several other parties from the Kain hut. Took some snaps with the trusty Kodak disposable:

 

Moving up to the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col in the morning

 

Bugaboo Corner, Snowpatch Spire

 

Madcap rambling up the West Ridge

 

On the summit block, Snowpatch behind

 

Like a ship's prow

 

Otto walking back down the fine white ridge

 

Too much weather behind the Howser Spires

 

Bugaboo Spire

 

Though it was a disappointment to be up there with all that gear and not get on the first objective, the place is so stunningly beautiful that the time and efforts are well repaid.

[olyclimber]

I'd take day trips up there anyday. What an awesome place.

[mattp]

The West Ridge on Pidgeon is one of my favorite climbs of all time. I think 50 Classics should have included it and the Beckey Chouinard instead of the NE Ridge of Bugaboo and Beckey Chouinard.

[Weekend_Climberz]

 

My new yearly destination for the next few years.