Hood headwall conditions?

[mantaraynick]

Hi, I plan to be driving by Mt Hood the August 6-7. What are the conditions like on headwalls that time of year (this year)? I know the standard route and lower grade glaciers get really soft in through the day. Do the headwalls stay icy in the shade or will this be rotten snow?

 

I have some options for a rout and might do the South Side day one and then try for the North Face. Any reports would be appreciated.

 

Nick

[iain]

You will encounter poor, if not life-threatening conditions on any headwall route right now.

[billcoe]

It's the truth, he's not kidding. You might seriously consider spending a day hiking up to Barrett Spur on the North side and hanging out for a bit. (it's safetly out of the way of falling ice and rocks).

 

The first 200 foot high ice cliff which sluffs off and sweeps everything in it's path will make you happy to be alive.

[billbob]

Went up to Barrett Spur last Sat, the icefall potential is something to behold. Didn't go out anywhere near the fall zone. Suggest viewing from afar. Note that if the hanging glaciers dont kill you, the mosquitos will.

[ryland_moore]

It may be worth bringing the ice tools and playing around on Elliot Glacier though as I am sure the glacier will be dry by then and could climb ice in the creavsses. That's about it for this time of year though.

[mantaraynick]

I'm remember exploring some ice caves on the Elliot a while back - that's a great idea. Is the snow rotten though? If rockfall is due to melt-freeze cycles, it could be avoided with the right route or climb time. I won't push the impossible but it would be nice to find a steep summit climb. What's Sunshine like? Cheers,

 

Nick

[glm]

The north side routes are all winter routes. However, as was stated above, the Eliot Glacier should have some ice climbing opportunities, assuming the usual cautions. There's a broken section in the middle of the glacier that would be fun to play on. It's unbelieveable in winter under good conditions - ice chutes all around the glacier, in addition to the sublime N face routes.

 

Of course, watching massive ice and rock fall from a reasonable distance is also fun....

[gslater]

If rockfall is due to melt-freeze cycles, it could be avoided with the right route or climb time.

 

It's pretty much just melt cycles at this time of year. Nasty, nasty. If you hike up Cooper Spur or Barrett Spur, you can hang out and witness just how nasty it is. Pretty constant crap falling down; sometimes spectacular.

[ivan]

climbing any route on hood this time of year is like humping your sister - yeah, you can do it, but it doesn't make you feel proud

[iain]

What's Sunshine like?

 

Interestingly this year, Sunshine has some particularly massive crevasses up high which push you over onto Eliot HW and the large runnel systems that form after about April over there. Not sure what's going on up there. I wouldn't recommend it. You could get onto Cathedral Ridge on the far right and slog your way up that thing, but unless you like climbing piles of raisin bran it's just not a lot of fun.

 

I think a more fun day could be had ice climbing on the Eliot but some people are determined to slog choss.

 

You might have a fun time climbing through the Coe Icefall that time of year. It would certainly be a good challenge.

[billcoe]

climbing any route on hood this time of year is like humping your sister - yeah, you can do it, but it doesn't make you feel proud

 

Tell us about that Ivan!

 

You might have a fun time climbing through the Coe Icefall that time of year. It would certainly be a good challenge.

 

I'd pick that time and place carefully or plan on seeing what it looks like under an ice block. That Elliot icefall idea is a real good idea for getting in some great ice climbing in a (realativly) safe environment.

[MtnBoy]

Here is a picture from last weekend showing the headwall and snow dome on the right