miladugga Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 Hello All, If three of us were heading to Squamish for Mon-Thurs, and our leading abilities were 5.10a to 11a bolts and 5.6 to 5.9 trad, any suggestions on areas or routes to try? I have the McLane guide, but being a bear of very little brain it's hard to sort out. Also, how crowded will the popular climbs/campgrounds be? It's a first trip, so any info is appreciated. Thanks, Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
northvanclimber Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 If you want to do any sport, you're best off heading just a little further north from squamish to the chek area, since the bolted climbs are limited near squamish. the squamish select guidebook describes the chek area (and the other popular areas, including those in squamish) well. for gear, there's tonnes in squam. just depends on what you want to climb. the mclane guide book lists the popular areas. you might try the apron on the chief if you want some fun slab multipitch, otherwise the smoke bluffs have lots to offer. the malamute is also worth checking out and the chief itself is the showcase if you're up for it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MountaingirlBC Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 It was already getting to be a zoo up there at 6:30 this morning. There were at least 4 people on Diedre ahead of us and another 8 behind us last time I looked. We had Snake to ourselves at 6am a couple of Mondays ago though so you might be ok midweek. Start early before the heat and the after work crowds show up. Someone who's done more up there can probably recommend some good routes for you. There's a really fun 5.7 called Garfield (and about 14 other routes) at Comic Rocks which is about 10km S of Squamish that might be a good place to escape the crowds and the heat as it is mostly shaded. I haven't been there in years so hopefully someone can give you better directions. Maybe hit lighthouse park on your way out for some nice photo ops as ur climbing the cliffs right on the water. Very short tr's but a pretty spot. The double overhang is a fun 10ish route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmace Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 not sure you can get to comic rocks right now..? Construction and all.. theres so much to do in your grade areas..go to chek for the bolted routes.. this should take care of your bolted routes sport routes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trent Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 For trad climbs try Starr Wall on the Malamute, there are enough cracks here for an afternoon. On the Apron, "St Vitus' Dance" and "Rock On" are good choices. "Rock On" goes at 10a, but that is the final pitch with great pro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miladugga Posted July 23, 2006 Author Share Posted July 23, 2006 Thanks everybody, it sounds great. I hope this will be the first trip of many. I'll head out and get the select guide and make sure to visit chek. If any of you are kicking around next week, look for us at smoke bluffs or chek, (one of us has a scottish accent) and I'll buy the beer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pazzo Posted July 27, 2006 Share Posted July 27, 2006 mushroom .9 on the papoose is a definate must do crack! it gives classic squamish crack climbing w/ excellent anchors at the top! i think they're cold shut style anchors!??? it's free parking, and a 5 min hike in! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miladugga Posted July 29, 2006 Author Share Posted July 29, 2006 (edited) Thanks everybody, Zack, Dominic and I just got back, what an unbelievable place!! Here's a trip report of sorts, although adding the photos is taxing my computer skills, hope it works. We left Olympia at 0630, got there about noon. We walked into the campground at the Chief and got a place, which apparently was incredibly lucky since we didn't see another open spot for the rest of the trip. Camping at The Chief Decided to do some routes at the bulletheads, but through a navigational error on my part, ended up hiking to first peak, and spent the afternoon at the raven's castle, which was sublime. Views from First Peak Got back to camp very tired and dehydrated, drank water and crashed. Next day we required someplace you didn't walk up to, so we hit Smoke Bluffs, intending to do several areas. It turned out we spent the entire day at Neat and Cool, I climbed some 6, 7 and 8s, which was good for me (new trad leader) and Dom led Flying Circus, which we enjoyed following. 5.8 and 5.10 cracks Neat and Cool, midday Dom leading Flying Circus Afterwards went swimming at Murrin, then bouldered at Black Dyke boulders for a while, where Dom came withing one move of Sloppy Poppy,I failed to get pass the the second or third move My gym doesn't use V ratings, I guess it's nice to know where I stand. (Or sit...) Next day we met up with a swiss guy we met at Smoke Bluffs, so we had two ropes and went to the Chek. Did various climbs at the Crest, Conroy's Castle, and Foundation Wall. My hardest lead was the 10a at Foundation, favorites were Charlottes Web and Master of My Domain. I never figured out the gradings, the 5.9s seemed harder than the 5.10s, maybe just mental. Rapping down from Charlottes Web That night we swam at Murrin again and then ate and drank at the brew pub. One very cool aspect was meeting climbers from all over the world at the campground and the crags. My scariest moment was seeing someone in the next campsite with a Jason Kehl haircut, and I thought OMG, will this be the next climbers fashion??? cuz I'm not going there. As it turned out, it was Jason Kehl, so phew! Last day was bouldering. I am a big chicken, so I was happy to do warm-up (V0 with a ghosty face) and cheese grater. I considered taking a picture from the waist up with my hands on The Egg, standing on the ground, but the few remaining shreds of my self respect intervened. With that we were forced to head back to the US, 1 hour wait at the border, etc. We barely scratched the surface of the climbing, and I am hoping that if I let faster parties pass me on multi pitch routes, and return my friends quickdraws at the end of the day, I will come back in my next life as a squamish climber. Doug Edited July 29, 2006 by miladugga Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miladugga Posted July 29, 2006 Author Share Posted July 29, 2006 Sorry about the tiny photos, I have no idea how to fix that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted July 29, 2006 Share Posted July 29, 2006 When you go to the gallery, display them as the size you want, then right click Properties and copy the URL. I think it'll have a label in there with "-med" or some such that controls the size. You want medium, not large. At present they are thumbnail size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miladugga Posted July 29, 2006 Author Share Posted July 29, 2006 Thanks, if I can be taught to use the computer, anything is possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted July 30, 2006 Share Posted July 30, 2006 It sounds like you had a good time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted July 30, 2006 Share Posted July 30, 2006 Where is the papoose in relation to The apron or the smoke bluffs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted July 30, 2006 Share Posted July 30, 2006 it is south of shannon falls. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miladugga Posted July 30, 2006 Author Share Posted July 30, 2006 It sounds like you had a good time True enough, although the accidental walk to First Peak seems funnier in retrospect than it did at the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothrop Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 Cool, Doug. Squamish is a great place to get trad mileage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckiely Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 If you can believe it I fell on Diedre yesterday I was able to catch myself, but still, I FELL ON DIEDRE! Ever a climber will I be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 Did a soloist kick you in the head? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miladugga Posted July 31, 2006 Author Share Posted July 31, 2006 Re falling, I did watch a pretty good one: A guy on Neat and Cool popped off at the bulge before you head right, with a nut in 10 to 15 feet below. The ensuing 20 to 30 footer was impressive- he stopped about a foot off the rocks. To his credit, he got back on and finished it- with an additional higher piece in. Much hammering with rocks was required to get the nut out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckiely Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 Did a soloist kick you in the head? Ha Busted! No soloists on Saturday. I fell on the fourth pitch right at the part where the dihedral overhangs a bit, I wasn't far enough to the right and lost my balance. I was able to run down backwards for a couple steps and then grab at a big hold. Pretty funny, actually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 I fell off Diedre once. It was the last time I climbed with my car-keys in my front pants pocket. Diedre is greasy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 I fell off the walkoff from Snake once! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 What's a good alternative to Diedre as a good moderate multi-pitch trad route? less popular/less greasy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 Banana Peel Snake Sparrow Over The Rainbow Jungle Warfare Calc Crack Smoke Bluff Connection Hangup to Friendly Lizard Sunshine Chim to Slot Machine to Dora's Delight Slab Alley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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