Squamish Routes?

[miladugga]

Hello All,

If three of us were heading to Squamish for Mon-Thurs, and our leading abilities were 5.10a to 11a bolts and 5.6 to 5.9 trad, any suggestions on areas or routes to try? I have the McLane guide, but being a bear of very little brain it's hard to sort out. Also, how crowded will the popular climbs/campgrounds be? It's a first trip, so any info is appreciated. Thanks, Doug

[northvanclimber]

If you want to do any sport, you're best off heading just a little further north from squamish to the chek area, since the bolted climbs are limited near squamish. the squamish select guidebook describes the chek area (and the other popular areas, including those in squamish) well.

 

for gear, there's tonnes in squam. just depends on what you want to climb. the mclane guide book lists the popular areas. you might try the apron on the chief if you want some fun slab multipitch, otherwise the smoke bluffs have lots to offer. the malamute is also worth checking out and the chief itself is the showcase if you're up for it...

[MountaingirlBC]

It was already getting to be a zoo up there at 6:30 this morning. There were at least 4 people on Diedre ahead of us and another 8 behind us last time I looked. We had Snake to ourselves at 6am a couple of Mondays ago though so you might be ok midweek. Start early before the heat and the after work crowds show up. Someone who's done more up there can probably recommend some good routes for you. There's a really fun 5.7 called Garfield (and about 14 other routes) at Comic Rocks which is about 10km S of Squamish that might be a good place to escape the crowds and the heat as it is mostly shaded. I haven't been there in years so hopefully someone can give you better directions. Maybe hit lighthouse park on your way out for some nice photo ops as ur climbing the cliffs right on the water. Very short tr's but a pretty spot. The double overhang is a fun 10ish route.

[jmace]

not sure you can get to comic rocks right now..? Construction and all..

 

theres so much to do in your grade areas..go to chek for the bolted routes..

 

this should take care of your bolted routes

 

sport routes

[Trent]

For trad climbs try Starr Wall on the Malamute, there are enough cracks here for an afternoon. On the Apron, "St Vitus' Dance" and "Rock On" are good choices. "Rock On" goes at 10a, but that is the final pitch with great pro.

[miladugga]

Thanks everybody, it sounds great. I hope this will be the first trip of many. I'll head out and get the select guide and make sure to visit chek. If any of you are kicking around next week, look for us at smoke bluffs or chek, (one of us has a scottish accent) and I'll buy the beer!

[pazzo]

mushroom .9 on the papoose is a definate must do crack!

it gives classic squamish crack climbing w/ excellent anchors at the top!

i think they're cold shut style anchors!???

it's free parking, and a 5 min hike in!

[miladugga]

Thanks everybody, Zack, Dominic and I just got back, what an unbelievable place!! Here's a trip report of sorts, although adding the photos is taxing my computer skills, hope it works.

We left Olympia at 0630, got there about noon. We walked into the campground at the Chief and got a place, which apparently was incredibly lucky since we didn't see another open spot for the rest of the trip.

 

Camping at The Chief

Decided to do some routes at the bulletheads, but through a navigational error on my part, ended up hiking to first peak, and spent the afternoon at the raven's castle, which was sublime.

 

Views from First Peak

Got back to camp very tired and dehydrated, drank water and crashed.

 

Next day we required someplace you didn't walk up to, so we hit Smoke Bluffs, intending to do several areas. It turned out we spent the entire day at Neat and Cool, I climbed some 6, 7 and 8s, which was good for me (new trad leader) and Dom led Flying Circus, which we enjoyed following.

 

5.8 and 5.10 cracks

 

Neat and Cool, midday

 

Dom leading Flying Circus

Afterwards went swimming at Murrin, then bouldered at Black Dyke boulders for a while, where Dom came withing one move of Sloppy Poppy,I failed to get pass the the second or third move My gym doesn't use V ratings, I guess it's nice to know where I stand. (Or sit...)

 

Next day we met up with a swiss guy we met at Smoke Bluffs, so we had two ropes and went to the Chek. Did various climbs at the Crest, Conroy's Castle, and Foundation Wall. My hardest lead was the 10a at Foundation, favorites were Charlottes Web and Master of My Domain. I never figured out the gradings, the 5.9s seemed harder than the 5.10s, maybe just mental.

 

Rapping down from Charlottes Web

That night we swam at Murrin again and then ate and drank at the brew pub.

 

One very cool aspect was meeting climbers from all over the world at the campground and the crags. My scariest moment was seeing someone in the next campsite with a Jason Kehl haircut, and I thought OMG, will this be the next climbers fashion??? cuz I'm not going there. As it turned out, it was Jason Kehl, so phew!

 

 

Last day was bouldering. I am a big chicken, so I was happy to do warm-up (V0 with a ghosty face) and cheese grater. I considered taking a picture from the waist up with my hands on The Egg, standing on the ground, but the few remaining shreds of my self respect intervened. With that we were forced to head back to the US, 1 hour wait at the border, etc. We barely scratched the surface of the climbing, and I am hoping that if I let faster parties pass me on multi pitch routes, and return my friends quickdraws at the end of the day, I will come back in my next life as a squamish climber.

 

 

Doug

Edited July 29, 2006 by miladugga

[miladugga]

Sorry about the tiny photos, I have no idea how to fix that.

[catbirdseat]

When you go to the gallery, display them as the size you want, then right click Properties and copy the URL. I think it'll have a label in there with "-med" or some such that controls the size. You want medium, not large. At present they are thumbnail size.

[miladugga]

Thanks, if I can be taught to use the computer, anything is possible.

[G-spotter]

It sounds like you had a good time

[Blake]

Where is the papoose in relation to The apron or the smoke bluffs?

[G-spotter]

it is south of shannon falls.

[miladugga]

It sounds like you had a good time

 

True enough, although the accidental walk to First Peak seems funnier in retrospect than it did at the time.

[slothrop]

Cool, Doug. Squamish is a great place to get trad mileage.

[ckiely]

If you can believe it I fell on Diedre yesterday

 

I was able to catch myself, but still, I FELL ON DIEDRE! Ever a climber will I be?

[G-spotter]

Did a soloist kick you in the head?

[miladugga]

Re falling, I did watch a pretty good one: A guy on Neat and Cool popped off at the bulge before you head right, with a nut in 10 to 15 feet below. The ensuing 20 to 30 footer was impressive- he stopped about a foot off the rocks. To his credit, he got back on and finished it- with an additional higher piece in. Much hammering with rocks was required to get the nut out.

[ckiely]

Did a soloist kick you in the head?

 

Ha Busted! No soloists on Saturday.

 

I fell on the fourth pitch right at the part where the dihedral overhangs a bit, I wasn't far enough to the right and lost my balance. I was able to run down backwards for a couple steps and then grab at a big hold. Pretty funny, actually.

[fern]

I fell off Diedre once. It was the last time I climbed with my car-keys in my front pants pocket. Diedre is greasy.

[G-spotter]

I fell off the walkoff from Snake once!

[Blake]

What's a good alternative to Diedre as a good moderate multi-pitch trad route? less popular/less greasy

[G-spotter]

Banana Peel

Snake

Sparrow

Over The Rainbow

Jungle Warfare

Calc Crack

Smoke Bluff Connection

Hangup to Friendly Lizard

Sunshine Chim to Slot Machine to Dora's Delight

Slab Alley