Wildflower beta request:

[underworld]

looking for info on the wildflower route on snowpatch...

 

i've been to the bugz before so info on the specific route is what i'm after. but yes, tips on building a snaffle-proof electric fence is welcome as well.

 

from the older and newer versions of the bug. rock instruction books all i can gather is that it is 6 to 9 pitches of 5.9 the 'straigh-line-topo' makes it look rather straight forward.

 

thanks

[DirtyHarry]

I've climbed it. Good route. Straight forward. As I remember it pretty much stays in one dihedral most of the way. A bit licheny but good rock. Thats all you need to know.

[Otto]

Agreed, it's a cool route. However, there is some amount of climbing before the dihedral starts, about 40 or 50 meters, I think. I remember wandering about a bit looking for a good way up to the dihedral...

[DirtyHarry]

there is some amount of climbing before the dihedral starts, about 40 or 50 meters, I think.

 

Some. Probably depends on snow level, time of year. I do recollect it being described as easy 5th class, but it was harder - at least the way we went.

[mattp]

I climbed it many years ago (about a week after the first ascent, in fact), and I thought it was only so-so. Maybe it is cleaner now, but I thought the original route on Snowpatch was far superior and, even though it has a bunch of squeeze chimney, I liked the McCarthy route better too.

[Madcap]

For what it is worth here are my notes from a 2002 climb.

1.About 60m up blocks ledges and a faint crack system (4th class, length dependent on snow level at base)

2.Then a 5.7 or so pitch in a small right-facing dihedral then some flakes and blocks up to the main left-facing dihedral.

3.5.9 Pitch up the dihedral with jamming tending wide

4.Another 5.9 pitch up the dihedral where the crack narrows and there is more stemming and laybacks finishing with a steep move to the right over some blocks to join the continuation of the dihedral.

5. Wide jamming and stemming, 5.9 ish

6. Starts thin, then up flakes rounded grooves and cracks to a large ledge (5.9)

7. 5.6-5.7 cracks on less steep terrain just to the right of the butress crest

8. Wide, rounded cracks and grooves right up to the summit.(5.9) If I recall the last move steps right over the summit cairn.

The climb was clean and very enjoyable when we did it. We had 60m ropes and I recall that we could not string the last 2 pitches together. (We tried and ended up simulclimbing them)

Enjoy, if you are up there in late July perhaps we'll see eachother.

[DirtyHarry]

You keep notes on climbs?

 

Fuck dude wuts with the play by play? Why don't you just post a streaming video of every friggin hold and move, ala Gary Ygevne. Keep at least a little bit of adventure alive.

 

 

[Madcap]

No don't have notes on every climb but happened to keep them for this one. Wouldn't bother to post but for the specific request. Its a fun climb, hope I didn't spoil any of the adventure.

[TeleRoss]

Did Wildflowers last summer. Good route up the big north facing dihedral of the pillar. From pillar top, cracks and grooves continue to summit.

definitely worth doing.

[knotzen]

Oh man, I thought this was a request to identify a wildflower. I was all ready for a pic and everything.

[mattp]

Harry, do not read any thread where somebody asks for beta if you don't want beta.

[TimL]

Has anyone done the Sunshine route on Snowpatch? What type of rack do you need. The route looks awesome, although I had a couple people tell me you need a huge rack of big cams for the route.