Mt. Hood South Side Conditions

[Carrie]

Anyone have an update on the Hood Climbing conditions? I haven't got in my summit this year and I suppose after this hot weather it will be too late? I'm conservative, so if it's not great, I'll wait until next year.

Thanks!

[Chad_A]

Here you go.

 

http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/mthood/recreation/climbing/conditions.shtml

[RogerJ]

Cool. The report I read linked to CC.com

 

-r

[ivan]

did the sunshine route last sunday and it was in fine shape and tremendously superior to the shit s side - do that instead and be sure to be high on the mtn by sunup as it's sloppy early

[Couloir]

did the sunshine route last sunday and it was in fine shape and tremendously superior to the shit s side - do that instead and be sure to be high on the mtn by sunup as it's sloppy early

Ahhh..a nice break from the domestic chaos!

How's the schrund? Any other cravasses opening up yet? I'm probably doing it 7/9 and would love to go as light as possible (ie no glacier gear).

[ivan]

re: sunshine route - the current track goes up left of horseshoe rock (thus exposing itself to icefall off the upper elliot - about 30 minutes after running through the hundred feet of exposed area it was swept by an iceblock bigger than ron jeremy's cock - quite sobering) - there's a bridge necessary to get left of the horseshoe that very likely won't be there after this coming weekend and will require travel well off to the right of horseshoes where there are currently at least 3 other options for getting onto the ridge - might well only be the lowest still around if this heat continues for 10 more days

 

we descended the cooper spur - great fun to cover so much of the mountain in one day - currently you can regain the elliot just below the middle icefall directly from the middle of the spur trail requiring only about 300 feet of climbing to return to camp below the snowdome

[Cobra_Commander]

you guys don't appreciate the peace and quiet of the south side???

 

[Couloir]

you guys don't appreciate the peace and quiet of the south side???

I think I'm done with it for a few years. Winter maybe, but not now. Like Ivan said, the N side has so much more shizzle to offer.

 

currently you can regain the elliot just below the middle icefall directly from the middle of the spur trail requiring only about 300 feet of climbing to return to camp below the snowdome

Yeah, that was my other question. I was planning on camping around the base of Snowdome (and do a carryover) and didn't know if getting to that point it made more sense to cross in the middle of the Eliot or to cross lower on the Eliot, along the ~Timberline Trail and come straight up around Lang Crag. I'll decide when we get there. Thanks

[Couloir]

an iceblock bigger than ron jeremy's cock - quite sobering

 

[Frikadeller]

Here are some Hoodies crevasses on the south side...PIc take last 6/24

 

[Carrie]

I actually have not climbed another route other than the south side. I guess we do it at least once a year because we know the route well and get back to Timberline in time for brunch! How advanced/difficult is the sunshine route--I was also considering the Cooper Spur route. It would be nice to avoid the crowd at the Pearly Gates. I always feel like I'm taking my life into my hands and wonder if I should just turn around at the hogs back.

[ivan]

do the spur next - for the full experience bivi around 9000 and get a very early start so the descent's done befroe the sun softens up the route - tech difficulty is similar to s side - elliot has a lot of glacier travel so requires more diligence

[Kevin_Matlock]

re: Slog's Back - did it last weekend. The bridge over the crevasse looked close to punching through. The route this year seemed different to me. The conga line up the Hog diverts right and regains the ridge up a brief but steeper slope (60 degree? Anybody?).

Earlier in the year the route went left around the headwall, now it's going back through the gates.

Save yourself a lot of hassle by bringing a second tool and just free the west rim or take the short cut by freeing the left chute, thus bypassing the roped-up yokels. The second tool isn't required, but woulda been nice for the brief exposure.

[Cobra_Commander]

do the spur next - tech difficulty is similar to s side

 

It should perhaps be noted that if you slip on the south side you will probably have a painful but survivable runout "most of the time". If you fall on Cooper Spur you will die. The exposure can be difficult for some people downclimbing in the afternoon, when it becomes better for skiing than for skittering around with balling-up crampons. It is not "bad" but the south side and cooper spur are not equivalent climbs.

 

of course, it's pretty unstylish to fall on any of these kinds of climbs

[ivan]

well - if chix in woolen dresses were doing it en masse in the 1880's and it scares you off you might as well hand in your crampons!

[Cobra_Commander]

are you saying chix in woolen dresses suck at climbing

 

they were also yarding on this the whole way up, in Sept:

 

 

there was a lot of shit done in the 1800's I think I would pass on.

 

but anyways I was just sayin'.

[ivan]

same pile of shit i believe i saw sunday on the way down the spur

 

and i wouldn't mess w/ dem prospecting-era beyotches climbers or not - might suppose me testicles were fahqing golden nuggets and fahq up the whole space-time continium

[timberline113]

I soloed up the southside Wed. 6/28/06

Route was soft to summit, take but you may not use your crampons. The bergschrund is still passable on the right side. I went up the Old Crater route, descending down thru the Pearly Gates, encountering a steady hail of small debris in the chutes above the Hogsback, summit time near noon, with no one else around.

[jfs1978]

Looking for conditions report from anyone that's been up the Hogsback in the last couple days (or anyone familiar with Hood after conditions like this week's). With the wet weather over the past few days I'm wondering what to expect...mushy nasty cascade concrete? ice? solid? also curious how far the schrund has spread to by now - I have a first timer that's looking to go along so don't want to push our/his luck.

 

thanks much.

[Roy]

Here you go.jfs1978

 

http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/mthood/recreation/climbing/conditions.shtml]

Edited July 13, 2006 by Roy