David Trippett Posted June 25, 2006 Posted June 25, 2006 While cragging at the Cirque of the Uncrackables yesterday I had the good fortune to watch Sonnie Trotter free the Cobra Crack on his first try of the day, after much work, and, after what has been quite a long history of unsuccessful attemps from various parties. He figures the grade will settle around 14b/c. It will easily be one of the hardest cracks in the world. It was a jubilant atmosphere following the climb to say the least....YEAH SONNIE!!! Quote
vanisle Posted June 26, 2006 Posted June 26, 2006 whoa, seems like he has been climbing many hard cracks lately Quote
olyclimber Posted June 26, 2006 Posted June 26, 2006 cool. was he recording his attempt on film? Quote
David Trippett Posted June 26, 2006 Author Posted June 26, 2006 Photographer Paul Bride was there and shot the whole thing..... Quote
G-spotter Posted June 27, 2006 Posted June 27, 2006 From gripped.com June 27, 2006 - Trotter Climbs the World’s Hardest Crack Canada’s own Sonnie Trotter has freed one of the most coveted crack testpieces in North America, Squamish’s Cobra Crack. It had been attempted by many of the world’s hardest climbers, most recently by Swiss crack master Didier Berthod. Trotter tried the route 30-40 times over three years. He says “The rating seems to be falling in around the 5.14b/c mark. It deserves a variable grade because of it's thin nature. For some, the climb may feel like 5.14a/b, for others the climb may feel like 5.14c/d and on some rare occassions it could very well be impossible. So, for now, it's certainly the hardest pure crack climb in the world. Cobra is 30 m long, with the crux pulling over the lip around the 2/3 mark. It involves huge dynamic throws between one and two finger locks, pain is ever present and the mental crux is overlooking the pain move after move. The redpoint crux comes over the lip on a slippery side pull, the feet are next to nothing and it takes momentum and a huge throw to latch the final edge, at which point you're about 15-20 feet about your last piece of gear; it's really exciting.” Quote
Guest Posted June 28, 2006 Posted June 28, 2006 good job sonnie... here's footage i shot of Didier last summer!! Quote
Guest Posted June 29, 2006 Posted June 29, 2006 (edited) if u look closely he places a 0.4 camalot, then runs it out until he falls... it's funny, he shows me two .4 camalots, one the new style, and one the old style, and says "these new camalots are shite, i took 3 falls on it and now it' done". whereas the old one he took like 30 falls on it both on Cobra and in the old country and it indian creek, and it's got exactly the same damage as the new sytle!! lol. he was pissed... Edited June 29, 2006 by Baggio Quote
Off_White Posted June 30, 2006 Posted June 30, 2006 That's a wild clip, thanks for posting that. Quote
Guest Posted June 30, 2006 Posted June 30, 2006 no prob... i have a couple more where i'm belaying, but that was his best attempt!! Quote
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