Aid climbing haul question

[chris]

In the latest copy of Gripped, Tommy Caldwell recommends "space hauling" using a 20-30' line and the wall hauler backed up. Can anyone clarify what he's doing for me?

[texplorer]

Space hauling is a similar set up to normal hauling. The difference is that when your ready to haul you clip into the haul and jump from the belay. If the weight is light enough you go flying into space below while moving hte bag up. You can still use 2 to 1 or other mechanical advantages but you should back up the haul. Caldwell probably uses a 20-30' line tied into the anchor to keep your from taking the ride for a whole pitch.

 

In effect you are using your body weight to move the bag up. After each time you move the bag up you have to jug back up to the belay.

[chris]

exciting

 

How would you set up a mechanical advantage system that would let you do this? I can picture a simple 1:1 system, but I'm having problems moving past that.

[marcus]

Yeah, um...no need to actually fling yerself anywhere: with lighter loads(ca. 2-man kit with up to 2 days provisions) you can just tie in long(20' or so is fine) on the lead line and then jug in place on the haul line, thus raising the bags. With more substantial loads: you still tie in long and jug the haul line - but yer pardner also reefs on the line with you acting as a counterbalance.

 

Always back up your wallhauler with a jumar regardless! They're awesome little gadgets, but they do fail on occasion. Flying piggies make for sad days...

[chris]

Thanks,Marcus but I'm really looking for clarification of this space hauling concept, not standard wall hauling.

In the latest copy of Gripped, Tommy Caldwell recommends "space hauling" using a 20-30' line and the wall hauler backed up. Can anyone clarify what he's doing for me?

[chirp]

Interesting tips, the more the merrier.

 

I tried body hauling once while soloing Prodigal Sun, my first solo and it was horrendous clusterfuck. Pig jammed on everything it could find.

[chris]

How's that Chirp? Feel better?

[chirp]

[lancegranite]

While making hauling easier, mechanical advantage does increase the load on the anchor.

As always, back up even the most bomber anchor.

[Bigtree]

...Can anyone clarify what he's doing for me?

 

Clipped this from an article in MountainZone.com:

 

"...We used a technique called space hauling which is similar to the old dumb waiter elevators (we're the dummies).

 

Basically the haulbags are tied to one end of the rope which goes up to a pulley and then the three of us are clipped to the other end of the rope as counter weights. Since we weigh more than the gear we are hauling, the haulbags are brought up with theoretically little effort on our part.

 

However, the bags get stuck every corner and roof and when the bags are raised up to the pulley the three of us have to then ascend back up the rope, so we end up jugging twice the distance of the actual haul!"

[EWolfe]

Cool.

 

Quite the wild ride on the overhanging headwall, I bet!

[underworld]

While making hauling easier, mechanical advantage does increase the load on the anchor.

As always, back up even the most bomber anchor.