AaronB Posted May 31, 2006 Posted May 31, 2006 Sorry, I tried to search as I know this must have come up a million times before, but couldn't find anything. I'm wondering what diameter prusik, people would use with 8mm rope. The ones I am currently using slip way too much, even with many loops. Quote
AaronB Posted May 31, 2006 Author Posted May 31, 2006 A Tibloc isn't the answer to my question. I need something that will be on the rope so I can transfer the weight of my partner to an anchor. Its hard to light up, when you have to stay in self arrest while your partner crawls out of crevasses. Especially when you don't have a lighter, and are using matchheads against your zipper. Quote
fishstick Posted May 31, 2006 Posted May 31, 2006 I dropped down to 6mm for small ropes. In theory it's a bit weak, but 7 just slides. GB Quote
Couloir Posted May 31, 2006 Posted May 31, 2006 I prefer a Tibloc too, but to answer your question 6mm should work, 5 for sure. Anything larger will slip and anything too much smaller could tighen up to much. Quote
Coopah Posted May 31, 2006 Posted May 31, 2006 Use a rule of thumb for prusik cord: 60% - 80% of the host rope. So for 8mm rope, 5 works great & 6 will work but you may want an extra wrap with the 6mm. Quote
ketch Posted May 31, 2006 Posted May 31, 2006 5mm works great. 6 and up is a little bit fiddly, 4 works very well I just can't bring myself to prussic out on it. I use part of my texas rig to tie to an anchor initially so that I can get out of arrest position. In this use I would stay with the 5. If all you are doing is preplacing something to transfer with 4 would hold just as well, you'd just have to fiddle a bit to get it released after the transfer. Quote
scottk Posted May 31, 2006 Posted May 31, 2006 Prussik might work just as well as a Tibloc in a tie-off situation. However, in my experience, Tiblocs work better than prussik knots when you're climbing out. When climbing up a snowy crevasse wall the prussiks tend to ice up and you have to untie and retie everytime you want to move the knot up. Quote
sobo Posted May 31, 2006 Posted May 31, 2006 Use a rule of thumb for prusik cord: 60% - 80% of the host rope. So for 8mm rope, 5 works great & 6 will work but you may want an extra wrap with the 6mm. This is the answer. According to Rigging For Rescue of Ouray, CO, the ratio of prusik cord diameter to host rope diameter is 2/3 to 3/4. Quote
Coopah Posted June 3, 2006 Posted June 3, 2006 Use a rule of thumb for prusik cord: 60% - 80% of the host rope. So for 8mm rope, 5 works great & 6 will work but you may want an extra wrap with the 6mm. This is the answer. According to Rigging For Rescue of Ouray, CO, the ratio of prusik cord diameter to host rope diameter is 2/3 to 3/4. Mike must have changed the numbers when he bought the company from Kirk. Gotta do something to be different - Typical Quote
whidbey Posted June 3, 2006 Posted June 3, 2006 Why not tie it up your prusik "Klemheist Style"... Seems to grip great on skinny glacier rope. Only drawback is of course it's a one way prusik. Linky to knot. http://www.animatedknots.com/klemheist/i...imatedknots.com Just a thought... Quote
layton Posted June 3, 2006 Posted June 3, 2006 Practical Limitations: In practice, this knot would be almost impossible to tie under load; shortening one end and resecuring the line would be preferable. As a knot , it cannot pass through blocks or sheaves. In the critical environments presented by climbing, search and rescue, and boating, there are no applications where the Sheepshank would offer a preferred solution Quote
layton Posted June 3, 2006 Posted June 3, 2006 in my 37 years of climbing, i still have absolutely no idea how to tie a bowline or have ever wish i knew how to tie one Quote
G-spotter Posted June 3, 2006 Posted June 3, 2006 Yeah, you've shanked some sheep, haven't you Mike? What about a Bachman knot, better than a kleimheist or a Prussik and it works in both directions. Quote
Blake Posted June 4, 2006 Posted June 4, 2006 in my 37 years of climbing, i still have absolutely no idea how to tie a bowline or have ever wish i knew how to tie one mike was climbing in those pre-fetal years. ascent out the birth canal 5.10d R/X ?? Bowline is fast and handy guys. Quote
layton Posted June 5, 2006 Posted June 5, 2006 i was thinking up jugging up prusik peak. does anybody know it's diameter so I can find a suitable cord size to wrap around it? Quote
still_climbin Posted June 5, 2006 Posted June 5, 2006 Using the 60% - 80% rule I'd say about 5 km cord will do. Quote
G-spotter Posted June 5, 2006 Posted June 5, 2006 It's at least twice the girth of Girth Pillar Quote
sobo Posted June 6, 2006 Posted June 6, 2006 ...Bowline is fast and handy guys. And in a real pinch, can be tied using only one hand. Quote
sobo Posted June 6, 2006 Posted June 6, 2006 Mike must have changed the numbers when he bought the company from Kirk. Gotta do something to be different - Typical Just came from the class last month. Have no idea when the numbers got changed. Quote
kenp Posted June 9, 2006 Posted June 9, 2006 how about using jumars on a 8mm rope? I know they suggest a minimum diameter but I don't remember. I carried them last year and the question came up, was planning on using them again this year Quote
Couloir Posted June 9, 2006 Posted June 9, 2006 I'm not sure what the threshold is (6mm?) but my Jumars hold better on thinner rope than my Tibloc. Quote
sobo Posted June 9, 2006 Posted June 9, 2006 how about using jumars on a 8mm rope? I know they suggest a minimum diameter but I don't remember. I carried them last year and the question came up, was planning on using them again this year Answer => click me Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.