Baltoro Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 I aid soloed Iron Horse today to the Sagitarius bailout anchor to the right. I've been meaning to do this for quite awhile and never seem to have enough time or lack of a partner so today was the day. Time only allowed me to get to the Sagitarius anchor but I knew that going in. Car to car time was right around 3 hours which I was pleased with considering I took forever bulding my anchor. Actual time on the climb was pretty quick. The anchor is quite bomber with two cordalettes looped under the two big blocks and a 3/4" to 1" angle hand placed at the point directly under the start of the climb. I tied all that together with the tail of my tag line, clipped in a screamer for good measure and tied that into a couple of bomber nuts for downward pull. The climb itself could probably be done almost entirely on size 4-6 HB offsets. There are some good small cam placements but the HBs work great. I have a few BD C3s still on backorder so I just had the .1 and the 0. These were the only cams that I used and they were great. Also made my first solo leading cam hook moves to the right of the fixed pin. Great climb and in the shade too. Interestingly enough the only person I saw once I was climbing was another soloist, TRing Japanese Gardens. It was kind of nice having the whole place to ourselves and not having continual chatter between partners. Hopefully next week I can get out of work a little earlier or be due in at home later (bathroom remodeling)and get to the Ringing Flake anchor. Gear: BD stoppers HB Offsets a few small cams 1" angle and two cordalletes for the anchor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlympicMtnBoy Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 Sounds like fun, I was there doing the same thing a few weeks ago up the the flake anchors, then built a new anchor and did arachnid arch to the anchors you ended at. Hooking is great fun on solo lead isn't it. ;-) Sounds like you had a nice beefy anchor too, I think I just slung a couple good boulders and called it good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
needtoclimb Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 That's a fun little climb. I sent you a pm about aiding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 This route was my first (and only) aid climb that I ever did and I used mostly cam hooks with a few small cams inbetween. It was a blast. Nice job and great TR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.