high_on_rock Posted May 23, 2006 Share Posted May 23, 2006 Anyone have any insight into the "season" at the bugaboos? Anyone know when the road clears of snow enough to get to the trailhead? Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulB Posted May 23, 2006 Share Posted May 23, 2006 As far as the road goes, it really depends on what the snowpack is like this year. You might want to keep an eye on the Live-the-Vision message board, and the ACMG Mountain Conditions Reports (usually posted here by jmckay). If you haven't already, get this book for "typical" climbing season info: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underworld Posted May 23, 2006 Share Posted May 23, 2006 was there mid july last year for 4 days. first day found winter conditions on pigeon, 2 days later was climbing dry on bugaboo. the snowback was good - glaciers were easy to negotiate at that time. good luck, that place Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wfinley Posted May 24, 2006 Share Posted May 24, 2006 The exact same thing happened to us (mid July '01)! We climbed Pigeon horsin' along section that were covered with 6 inches of rime ice. Next day we headed up the Kain route in tshirts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BackCountryPunk Posted May 24, 2006 Share Posted May 24, 2006 I was there mid July & early August last summer. July found a fair bit of snow around. Glaciers were easy to travel on, but some routes were still pretty icy. Early August was great. Lots of dry rock, but the glaciers were still plain sailing. I'm putting my money on another early August trip this year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RocNoggin Posted May 26, 2006 Share Posted May 26, 2006 posted on May 19, 2006 Hi All, This may seem early to most of you but I have had several inquiries lately so I thought I would pass it on. It is still winter in the Bugaboo Spires. The logging road has only been passable (4x4 only) for a couple of days and the last three KM into the Park are closed due to construction from last fall. The trail is snow covered all the way to the hut and is still threatened by serious avalanche hazard from Eastpost Spire. Historically, parties heading into the Bugs before mid to late June have spent more time wallowing around in waist deep snow than climbing. Cheers, Marc Piché Mountain Guide hope this helps, I am also trying to plan my first trip to the Bugs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted May 27, 2006 Share Posted May 27, 2006 I've been to the Bugs once, so I have a general idea of the area. Going again this summer and I've done a couple of the crowded classics. Can anyone reccomend good routes that are not the crowded classics. The more difficult the better. Looking for ideas for harder free climbs that can be done in a day by non-super climbers, but by a party thats able to climb fast enough. Energy Crisis looks awesome, but is short. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted May 27, 2006 Share Posted May 27, 2006 Sunshine, Paddle Flake Direct, Sheldon Rt above camp after you set up your tents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted May 27, 2006 Share Posted May 27, 2006 Hey Tim you should jump on Power of Lard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted May 28, 2006 Share Posted May 28, 2006 I'd be afraid Power of Lard would jump on me. Tower Arete on Snowpatch looks really nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RocNoggin Posted May 28, 2006 Share Posted May 28, 2006 just how crowded are the "crowded classics"? are we talking about people climbing all over each other and 4 or 5 people at a belay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BackCountryPunk Posted May 28, 2006 Share Posted May 28, 2006 Kain route can be a zoo, as can the NE Ridge of Bugaboo. Get up early if you want to be first on McTech Arete on a nice day. Its close to camp and a stellar climb. We breezed past 7 people at one stance on the Kain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 Has anyone done Furry Pick, Bugaboo, Sunshine, Tower Arete or any other routes on Snowpatch? As for Howser, if you bivied at the base of the Beckey Chournard, would there be snow to melt for water? Whats a good rack for this route? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbb Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 Tim- Sunshine looks amaaaaaazing. but of course, you've walked right under it. I've done most of the Kraus McCarthy on snowpatch. fun route, about 5.8. I think Joe Puryear has some pictures of Furry Pink on his website. That and the Wildflowers route looks cool. Other classic but hard routes include All Along the Watchtower on the howsers (up to 5.12, or a lot of .10 and .11 with a small bit of aid). Also, I've talked to two parties who did the East face of Piegon spire and really liked it (long 5.10 route) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 Hey Dave - Thanks for the ideas. Everything sounds really good. I'd love to try all along the Watchtower. I saw the topo and it looks cool. All depends on what I can talk the chica into. No matter what, it'll be good to be back in North America for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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