minx Posted May 24, 2006 Posted May 24, 2006 Minx, ITS BEEN APPROVED BY THE CLIMBING COMMITTEE. What part of that did you not understand!? shit harry, you're right! What was I thinking. I'll make sure to stay off of every moderate route in WA until I check with the committee! I'll go jump on something that i'm not physically ready to do since i didn't register my climb with the committee. folks, if the committee approves my weekend plans, i'll need at least 8 more for a full gaggle. Please send me a PM with the date and time you completed the 4th climb of your basic course for consideration.
Gary_Yngve Posted May 24, 2006 Posted May 24, 2006 As I recall the Mounties explicitly tell new students that they are not a guide service, and can not guarantee anyone's safety because climbing is inherently dangerous, and you can get hurt and die, even on a field trip. Furthermore, every new basic student this year sat through a short lecture involving safety and risk that specifically addressed the Sharkfin accident. Every new intermediate student this year sat through a longer lecture that addressed specific issues from the accident (slinging boulders, loads on anchors, etc.)
KaskadskyjKozak Posted May 24, 2006 Posted May 24, 2006 CBS- don't make me humiliate you in public. 1) my weekend plans are changed b/c a group of 10 mounties has planned to do the hike/climb i had in mind. 2) i personally have witnessed more than one mountie in trouble and helped 3) i've been stuck behind a whole slew of them (8+) on a popular local climb while it took an hour or more for a single pitch to be climbed. Followed by me saying "you know you can't get down from there on a 60 meter rope right?" response being "umm...no" 4) DH recently got stuck behind a whole shmeer of them on another local climb. again, huge unnnecessary delays causing him to be late and me to worry. 5) See #4 for an incident when said mounties left a member of their party w/o a rope to rap down on...duh! 6) witnessed them snow camping in an avvy shute. 7) been chastized on more than one occasion for travelling w/o the enough/appropriate gear. I was out for a trail/snow run...not a major expedition. 8) regularly partnered with one that can't make a decision to save their life....literally. So CBS...STFU. My climbing experience is not limited to nor even much guided by what is said on this board. everything you've seen is probably true, but... I've seen the same types of ridiculous things from GDIs (goddamn independents). For example, when I climbed the Emmons last July, at least 1/2 the people had no f**king busines being there, and I checked - there was no Mountie party there. There was a party who had hauled up FOTH to Schurman and were practicing ice axe arrest on the flats by the hut, for God's sake! And don't get me started on parties who refused to step aside and let other teams pass on the traverse, or those who insisted on passing *above* other teams without even asking first. Then there was the skier I saw, unroped, with no partner in sight, taking a f-ing rest break on a crevasse.
minx Posted May 24, 2006 Posted May 24, 2006 Gary, you're right...most folks in the mounties are probably perfectly nice and pleasant. They're probably even considerate about letting people pass but sometimes it's hard to pass 8 people. sure it's the climb leaders that are getting hurt. that's the point....who does the club choose as leaders??? i know they post their climbs on-line. the recent example for me is one my DH did recently and they got stuck behind 2 separate groups of mounties. very frustrating sure maybe we should all be climbing harder than the basic class mounties. but hell, i'll admit it... i love moderate alpine climbs. i'm no badass hard chick. i am queen of the moderates so get the fuck out of my way before i get all 5.7 on your ass.
KaskadskyjKozak Posted May 24, 2006 Posted May 24, 2006 Minx, ITS BEEN APPROVED BY THE CLIMBING COMMITTEE. What part of that did you not understand!? shit harry, you're right! What was I thinking. I'll make sure to stay off of every moderate route in WA until I check with the committee! I'll go jump on something that i'm not physically ready to do since i didn't register my climb with the committee. folks, if the committee approves my weekend plans, i'll need at least 8 more for a full gaggle. Please send me a PM with the date and time you completed the 4th climb of your basic course for consideration. look on the bright side - there are plenty of moderate routes that are not approved, and you can go there w/o seeing a single Mountie. Go off the beaten path, and you can easily avoid them.
minx Posted May 24, 2006 Posted May 24, 2006 KK- you're right GDIs fuck up all the time. Myself included. The difference is that the GDIs aren't out there trying to be a "climbing organization" and selling their way as the best, safest way.
KaskadskyjKozak Posted May 24, 2006 Posted May 24, 2006 but then who would i stand around in utter awe of???? yourself
minx Posted May 24, 2006 Posted May 24, 2006 but then who would i stand around in utter awe of???? me
DirtyHarry Posted May 24, 2006 Posted May 24, 2006 Minx, ITS BEEN APPROVED BY THE CLIMBING COMMITTEE. What part of that did you not understand!? shit harry, you're right! What was I thinking. I'll make sure to stay off of every moderate route in WA until I check with the committee! I'll go jump on something that i'm not physically ready to do since i didn't register my climb with the committee. folks, if the committee approves my weekend plans, i'll need at least 8 more for a full gaggle. Please send me a PM with the date and time you completed the 4th climb of your basic course for consideration. Ummm, you did get the memo on filling out the requisite forms in triplicate didn't you? The CLIMBING COMMITTEE is not here to fill out your paperwork for you, Minx. If you don't shape up and fly right from now on, the CLIMBING COMMITTEE will be forced to revoke your license, and there where will you be, MINX. And I haven't seen you at lecture recently. There was an utterly fascinating discussion on the history of the Munter hitch the other day. Your loss.
willstrickland Posted May 24, 2006 Posted May 24, 2006 As I recall the Mounties explicitly tell new students that they are not a guide service, and can not guarantee anyone's safety because climbing is inherently dangerous, and you can get hurt and die, even on a field trip. So does every similar college and outdoor club program in the country due to a little term called "liability" and those wonderful humans we call "personal injury lawyers".
chucK Posted May 24, 2006 Posted May 24, 2006 I don't think there is anything wrong with letting somebody know when you think they are doing something that could get them killed. In fact, I might even go so far to say that it would be wrong not to. Now, there is the issue of how this is done. Almost any time you do this you are going to ruffle some feathers. Some people may be better at this than others, but truth is, it takes high art and a bit of luck to be able to tell a stranger that they are fucking up without them feeling "chastized". Minx, I think you should lighten up. Lookit you. You just critized the safety practices of Mounties in your numbers 3, 5 and 6!
KaskadskyjKozak Posted May 24, 2006 Posted May 24, 2006 KK- you're right GDIs fuck up all the time. Myself included. The difference is that the GDIs aren't out there trying to be a "climbing organization" and selling their way as the best, safest way. show me a link to some literature where that claim is made. people in organizations tend to become attached to the things they work on, and because they have invested effort they think they've done a good job, and don't want to think otherwise, that is true. But that is human nature. You can see the same thing just about anywhere. but I will concede that there are some people who act exactly as you describe; I don't trust people like that Personally, I would never assume "my way" is the safest way. Until I get a few more years under my belt, I assume that I'm making lots of mistakes, and am trying to learn and improve without getting hurt or killed before then.
DirtyHarry Posted May 24, 2006 Posted May 24, 2006 As I recall the Mounties explicitly tell new students that they are not a guide service, and can not guarantee anyone's safety because climbing is inherently dangerous, and you can get hurt and die, even on a field trip. Furthermore, every new basic student this year sat through a short lecture involving safety and risk that specifically addressed the Sharkfin accident. Every new intermediate student this year sat through a longer lecture that addressed specific issues from the accident (slinging boulders, loads on anchors, etc.) Don't you think the students would be better off going to practice rock and drinking tall-dogs of Bud and working on their friction and edging technique than sitting at lecture? BOR-ING.
archenemy Posted May 24, 2006 Posted May 24, 2006 Excuse me, but the sidewalk in front of my work is a little slippery. Could one of you experts please come bolt it for me? Thanks, A
minx Posted May 24, 2006 Posted May 24, 2006 chuck i agree w/you about pointing out when someone is about to kill themselves. i'd like to think that i do it tactful in person. one of the incidents i'm refering to involved me running on a snow covered trail. i was out for a short run. not an overnighter. the woman scolded me for not carrying the proper equipment. apparently i needed extra clothes, my beacon, shovel, probe, a weeks worth of food, a tent, a compass and lord knows what else all to get out for a run. there is telling someone that they're about to rap off the end of the rope and die and then there's a brief classroom review of safety practices.
KaskadskyjKozak Posted May 24, 2006 Posted May 24, 2006 yeah...but do you have all the knot knowledge that CBS has and the superior footwork with mirrored glasses that KK possesses? THought not, so STFU NOOB! my foot work on rock sucks, and I don't own mirrored glasses
archenemy Posted May 24, 2006 Posted May 24, 2006 chuck i agree w/you about pointing out when someone is about to kill themselves. i'd like to think that i do it tactful in person. I cheer them on, but I do it tactfully. Yelling, "Jump, jump, jump" usually does the trick.
Off_White Posted May 24, 2006 Posted May 24, 2006 Personally, I think the world would be a more interesting place if we all told Minx what to do. Not safer, just more entertaining.
minx Posted May 24, 2006 Posted May 24, 2006 Ummm, you did get the memo on filling out the requisite forms in triplicate didn't you? The CLIMBING COMMITTEE is not here to fill out your paperwork for you, Minx. If you don't shape up and fly right from now on, the CLIMBING COMMITTEE will be forced to revoke your license, and there where will you be, MINX. And I haven't seen you at lecture recently. There was an utterly fascinating discussion on the history of the Munter hitch the other day. Your loss. i'm sorry i missed lecture again. i'm sure that your talk on the pros and cons of carrying a 3rd spare belay device was fascinating. i was told that if i filled out the paperwork in quadruple and had it in by 4:48:30pm GMT with 14 signatures my climb would be approved by THE COMMITTEE. i assume i can count you to sign the forms so that THE COMMITTEE will approve my climb? i know that you of all people are looking for a nice moderate outing.
archenemy Posted May 24, 2006 Posted May 24, 2006 yeah...but do you have all the knot knowledge that CBS has and the superior footwork with mirrored glasses that KK possesses? THought not, so STFU NOOB! my foot work on rock sucks, and I don't own mirrored glasses He means the ones with the mirrors on the inside
chucK Posted May 24, 2006 Posted May 24, 2006 Happiness = reality minus expectations When someone (mountie or other) gives me shit about not being properly outfitted for my grueling ascent of the Tooth, I actually find it fun, amusing and pleasurable in a smug, condescending, but polite way. It's similar to being carded. I find it delightful to be mistaken for some stupid kid, not offensive. Water off a ducks back, water off the back.
minx Posted May 24, 2006 Posted May 24, 2006 Personally, I think the world would be a more interesting place if we all told Minx what to do. Not safer, just more entertaining. hee! you just like it when i get my hackles up b/c CBS is an idiot
KaskadskyjKozak Posted May 24, 2006 Posted May 24, 2006 Happiness = reality minus expectations When someone (mountie or other) gives me shit about not being properly outfitted for my grueling ascent of the Tooth, I actually find it fun, amusing and pleasurable in a smug, condescending, but polite way. It's similar to being carded. I find it delightful to be mistaken for some stupid kid, not offensive. Water off a ducks back, water off the back. I know what you mean... like the fat goober hiking down avy gulch in soft snow telling me I should put my crampons on for that grueling approach to Lake Helen
Recommended Posts