looking to spend a night on a wall

[jesselillis]

I've been trad and sport climbing for a few years. It turns out that I will be working in the Sierra Nevadas this summer and relaively close to Yosemite. I'd like to learn something about big wall climbing and I'm looking for all the beta I can get. Websites worth looking at, recommednations for haul sacks, portaledges, books to read etc. Ideally I'll find someone out there willing to take me through the ropes of lead, haul, jug, but if I don't I'll be going at it with friends with a similar skill set to mine (lots of trad and sport, but little to 0 aid). If you have any constructive advice, I'd appreciate hearing it.

[gavastik]

I've been trad and sport climbing for a few years. It turns out that I will be working in the Sierra Nevadas this summer and relaively close to Yosemite. I'd like to learn something about big wall climbing and I'm looking for all the beta I can get. Websites worth looking at, recommednations for haul sacks, portaledges, books to read etc. Ideally I'll find someone out there willing to take me through the ropes of lead, haul, jug, but if I don't I'll be going at it with friends with a similar skill set to mine (lots of trad and sport, but little to 0 aid). If you have any constructive advice, I'd appreciate hearing it.

 

For gear, Fish Products: www.fishproducts.com

For advice and mentorship, I'd be the wrong person to ask.

 

Cheers

Paulina

[PBRstreetgang]

http://www.psychovertical.com/?livingonthewall

 

where in the Sierra are you staying? I used to live in those parts

Edited May 19, 2006 by PBRstreetgang

[curtveld]

books to read etc.

Pick up a copy of Big Walls by Long/Middendorf, which has a lot of good info and graphics intermixed with classic climbing tales. For a technical book it's a pretty enjoyable read.

[Dechristo]

[corvallisclimb]

dont try and spend a night on your first wall you will cluster fuck. practice lots before your first wall so it isnt practice.

 

 

or

 

[Matt_Anderson]

the long/middendorf book is fine. Mainly, though, just go out there and do it. None of it is rocket science, just be aware of what seems efficient and keep working at making it better.

 

If you do get the chance to go out with someone more experienced, just look at everything they do and ask yourself if there is a better way. Plenty of people with expereince don't think about efficiency, and there is no reason to take any longer on a wall than necessary.

 

Personally, I think that doing loads of multipitch trad as quickly as you can is the best way to become efficient at everything except sleeping.

[EWolfe]

 

[mountainmatt]

That belay really looks like it will help

[Bug]

Clip, clip, clip.

Aid by yourself a time or two.

Tie the rope into a boulder or three or set an anchor for an upward pull.

Take out a few feet of slack (5 to 10) and tie a loop and clip it into locking biner #1 (on your harness).

Aid up as high as you can.

Let out another few (5 or ten) feet of slack, tie a loop in it and clip into locking biner #2.

Unclip locking biner #1 and untie the loop.

Repeat.

Place lots of gear. in this case you are trying to get your system down so you end up doing it almost the same way every time.

Place piece, test it, clip an aider into it, stand on it, unclip the other aider from the lower piece, clip it to the appropriate biner, climb up the aiders.

Repeat.

I like Index for this exercise. steep and good solid rock with nice Yosimite style cracks.

When you like that exercise, set up a haul system and haul your pack up. Use a cut off milk jug over the knot on the pack to protect your rope.

Take a fifi hook or you'll burn out in 30 minutes.

Take a small hammer to gently bang on the end of your cleaning tool.

Take jumars and learn to be efficient on them.

Clean your own gear and force yourself to clean some zig-zags (hooks are nice for this part).

Carry water.

It ain't free climbing but in the rain it's a decent substitute and will keep you in shape.

You will also hone your gear placing skills.

Watch out for that tendency to hold onto the high caribiner too long without using the Fifi hook.

Tendonitis is lurking.

[EWolfe]

Isn't it a requirement that you bring waaayyy too much stuff the first time?

[corvallisclimb]

That belay really looks like it will help

 

plus those TWO screamers on the first peice would for sure keep his ass off the deck!

[mountainmatt]

plus those TWO screamers on the first peice would for sure keep his ass off the deck!

 

Holy crap! I didn't even notice that

[archenemy]

Just get a Parasite, clip in, relax.