Self-guided Rainier after 2-week class?

[tsmart]

I'm taking a 13-day Alpine Mountaineering class with Mountain Madness in June. I'd like to follow up by doing a self-guided climb the second week of August, preferably a 4-day Rainier attempt. The chief guide thinks the class is adequate preparation. Do you agree? Any route recommendations? Any leads on finding partners?

[mattp]

Plenty of people have climbed Mt. Rainer with less preparation than that. If you want somebody to tell you "you will be so adequately prepared that you will be safe," you probably won't get that from anybody other than a promoter of your particular class. But, if the class is good, you'll probably be relatively technically prepared for Mt. Rainier as compared to others on the mountain when you go.

[griz]

just do the Disappointment Cleaver and leave middle of the pack from Muir. The whole route will be highlighted by all the headlamps above and below you. Just connect the dots.

[tsmart]

Okay thanks, that helps.

[genepires]

you will get from the course what you put into it. if you want to be ready for rainier, then let your guide know so and pay attention to those parts of the course. review those portions many times (snow school, crevasse rescue, weather prediction, snow camping, ect) often during the course. there may be other books available so read them in the evening. ask for latter portion summit climbs to mimic rainier. steer the course in your direction and desire.

[tsmart]

Thanks, Gene. Can you clarify what you mean by "latter portion summit climbs?"

[genepires]

not sure how MM runs their courses but alpine ascents has a course that sounds similar. The way we did it basicaly

day 1 to 6 basic mountaineering skills (very important for your rainier trip)

day 7 to 9 rock skills

day 10 to 13 take those skills out to other peaks and climb good stuff. Learn other skills also but mostly solidifing basic skills, review, build experience and so forth. This would be the section to ask if you can go to heavilly glaciated areas.

I don't know their schedule or permited areas. Ask for peaks such as

Baker south side

glacier peak

shuksan pk, sulphide glacier

 

also, if possible, ask to lead your rope team and find the path through the glacier. don't hang out in the back. you will learn more in front. as the course goes on, make the leadership calls. the guide will make all the calls if you let him/her. the guide should welcome your desire to lead. (may not like your calls but that is why you are there. to learn)

 

enjoy your beautiful area!

tie knots in your rope before rappel. (my new mantra)

 

gene

[KaskadskyjKozak]

Consider climbing the Emmons route. It's still a dog route, but there are half as many as on the DC, and it is the least technical.

[PMT150]

I took the same 13 day course from MM last July. Genepires is correct, the more you put in the more you get out. Stick close the guides not only when they are instructing but when they do anything. Always volunteer to lead or do the task at hand as you will get more experience and more feedback. And PS, bring an extra set of clothes and shoes to keep in the van.

[Bug]

Run uphill hard for weeks so you don't have to think about oxygen.

If you do DC, wait for the groups above to clear the skyline so you don't get pummled on the lower traverse.

Or get up there before them and enjoy the sunrise from 12K on the top of the cleaver.