[TR] Smith Rocks- Koala Rock 4/10/2006

[alpinerack]

Climb: Smith Rocks-Koala Rock

 

Date of Climb: 4/10/2006

 

Trip Report:

I know, I'm 3 weeks late with this one, i've been busy.

My friend Travis recently moved to Portland and has been bugging me about taking him up hood. We planned on Mon-Tues (April 10-11) with a high camp at Illumination Rock cause he wants the full on alpine experience. We drive to Hood to find a full on white out and blizzard with no sign of improvment.

2 hours later we arrive in the Smith Rocks parking lot! The place was packed with groups and we didn't have the patience to wait in line to climb. We pulled out the Allen Watts book and came up with Koala Rock as the alternative.

It's only about a 30 minute hike up the river and past the irrigation canal to the base of the rock. We started with Round River, only rated 5.4 but it looked like a quick way to get to the top. Because of time we led the first 2 pitches as one, clipping bolts up the first 30 meters of easy 5.4 climbing and then placing a couple of nuts on the upper 30 meters of even easier 5.2 climbing. From the ledge the book recomends climbing through easy ledges to the left but we spotted some more bolts that go straight up from the belay. It ended up being fun, steep and well protected by what looked like new bolts. I guess the Round River Direct is no longer rated R! It was a great climb to start with.

Next we moved over to the South side of Koala Rock and climbed Suck My kiss 5.9. It starts with a really fun move around the arete and onto the easier face above. We next set up a top rope on the first pitch of Thin Air 5.8. Thin Air was spectacular, the best climb I have done at Smiffy (Only been there twice before).

 

Round River Direct 5.8

Travis on the 2nd pitch of Round River 5.4

Me leading the 3rd pitch 5.8

Travis following the 3rd pitch

Travis climbing Thin Air 5.8 on TR

Best of all, we did't see another person the whole time we were climbing. Everone was to busy running laps at the Dehidrals area.

 

Gear Notes:

Quick draws and a set of nuts. Wish I took some cams to lead Thin Air.

 

Approach Notes:

about 30 minutes of easy and scenic trail.

[billcoe]

Best of all, we did't see another person the whole time we were climbing. Everone was to busy running laps at the Dehidrals area.

 

 

 

Nice job dudes! Always good to hear.

[sweatinoutliquor]

Nice dude! We dodged crowds this weekend by heading up Stander (sp?) ridge. Lot's of fun and short easy - moderate stuff up there! Didn't see a soul until 4 in the afternoon when we worked our way down to adit rock. Fun to get away from the masses though! Koala is also on the list for some busy weekend day.

[Knottygirl]

Koala rock was the first place I climbed at Smith...it feels like a completly diiferent place when you're out there! No crowds!

[G-spotter]

Everytime I have been to the Marsupials there has been a 5-party lineup and a couple dogs waiting for Thin Air and Round River.

[jlag]

It used to be uncrowded, but now thanks to Trip Reports/photos on easy multi-pitch routes those days are over. From now until Aug. every weekend is packed over there. And then of course you get the idiots that decide that rapping DOWN Thin Air is easier than walking off. First of all you hit the climbers below you with your rope, and 2nd you will probably get your rope stuck.

[barkernews]

Yeah.

Koala sucks.

Stay away.

Please.