[TR] Mt.Matier east ridge recon.- 3/25/2006

[fear_and_greed]

Climb: Mt.Matier east ridge recon.-

 

Date of Climb: 3/25/2006

 

Trip Report:

I took a look up at the east ridge of Mt. Matier last weekend, to do a little recon for a future climb. Posted a few nice shots of the ridge and east side of Matier on my blog http://hydrogenplusstupidity.blogspot.com/ click on the pix to enlarge them.

 

Gear Notes:

Ear plugs if you've going to sleep in a hut with 30 others snoring, coughing, farting people.

[Chad_A]

Very cool pics. Fissle looks epic!

[Weekend_Climberz]

I really have to start making more trips to Canada.

[bigwallpete]

those pics are not of Snowspider but of Mt. Howard.

 

Nice pics.

[RemoWilliams]

What was it about the east ridge that you wanted to recon? Looks gnarl.

[pale]

So is traversing the ridge the point of the climb, or are you aiming for the summit by the route less travelled?

 

Just wondering because the NE face via Anniversary is much easier and involves way less up and down.

 

Great pics!

Edited March 31, 2006 by pale

[layton]

let the adventure begin!

[mattp]

The ridge is a rather appealing feature when you view it from the hut. I've been half way up it to drop onto the Anniversary Glacier and the lower half is quite unremarkable when you actually go up there. I think an equally appealing route would be to climb up the Twin One Glacier and summit from the SE.

[RemoWilliams]

I thought the E ridge was a gendarmed mess low down, which basically then ends at the east face. Anyone done it? It's listed in Mclane so it should have suckered someone in by now

[fern]

I've done the east ridge in summer. It is a fun long scramble. It's nowhere especially technical except for one mandatory rappel off the end of the gendarmed section. Through the gendarmes it gets steepish and more exposed, it'd probably be a good challenge in winter conditions and require more roped pitching than in summer. The gendarmes section ends abrubtly on a blunt flat snow ridge essentially at the top of the Anniversary Gl. from which you can branch off to a number of other options to get up the final 1000' summit section. Watch for crevasses here, as you are approaching parallel to them.

[G-spotter]

it's basically a 4th class variation on the standard route.

[RemoWilliams]

it's basically a 4th class variation on the standard route.

. . . if by "variation" you mean a completely different route

[G-spotter]

well, it parallels the anniversary glacier, and then climbs the entire NE ridge route so its really more of a variation to the approach than to the climb.