WA Pass routes

[ken4ord]

I am going to be back for a little bit this summer and I definitely want to get back into WA Pass again. This time though I want to branch away from the Liberty Group. Looking for suggestions on the Wine Spires and other peaks, climbs, whatever. So what your favorites and why?

[Blake]

Paisano Pinnacle - Burgundy spire link up! 12ish pitches, 5.7-5.9 range, if I remember correctly.

[chucK]

Washington Pass Traverse!

[DirtyHarry]

Gato Negro is worth doing

Rebel Yell on Chianti

Mark Allen, et. al. 's new lines on the north face of Bergundy are good too.

[eric8]

if the whole washington pass traverse seems a bit much its pretty resonable to do just the wine spires. and you get to climb rebel yell too

[goatboy]

I enjoyed Black Peak -- not for the route, as much, as for the position, the views of Goode, and the overall aesthetics fo the package hike in/campsite/climb/views/experience.

 

We did the NE Ridge and descended the South Ridge.

 

Check it out as an overnight option in the area...

[genepires]

haven't been on it, but clean break?

 

the formerly mazama guides shack (in mazama, duh) had several photocopies of new routes, free. There are outside the front door. The guides shack can be found right next to the mazama store.

 

They had route topos for spontaneity arete (looks like a nice 5.7) and gato nego (5.10+ on the west face of silver star or whine spires). They also had two topos for routes on goat wall which while technically is not wash pass, they are good destinations when it is raining in the pass. The routes are 10.c ao (11a) and a 5.8 or 5.9 depending. Did the latter and it was fun and pleasant.

 

maybe they have new topos now? (marks line on burgundy?) Maybe one can download them from their website?

 

There is a large potiential for new stuff also. Look on all sides of silver star for unclimbed rock. (or at least unpublished new rock)

 

hope that helps