j_b Posted July 10, 2002 Share Posted July 10, 2002 The South face offer many opportunities to wander. What is, in your opinion, the best line on the face? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highlander Posted July 10, 2002 Share Posted July 10, 2002 only done the stanley/burgner route and it was good. heard the beckey/davis route is good. go checkem out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 10, 2002 Share Posted July 10, 2002 Beckey Davis is real good. YOu can bypass the no pro 5.7-8 chimney upper section by going right on large flakes. The stellar handcrack above snafflehound ledge is cool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted July 10, 2002 Share Posted July 10, 2002 Did the S/Burgner route with Highlander and thought it was stellar. Be a solid .9 leader though! Lots of fun pitches on it. Next time up I'll do the beckey route due to high acclaim by the Caveman. PS. bring extra horsecock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jarred_Jackman Posted July 11, 2002 Share Posted July 11, 2002 Beckey route is the worst I've done. Honestly, the rock isn't that fun, only two decent pitches and one is quite short. The belays end in gravel pits with bushes everywhere. The routefinding isn't that bad. I'd do either the Stanley or the West Ridge, the west is easier but I hear it's alot of fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 11, 2002 Share Posted July 11, 2002 That is weird I thought it was awesome. The only gravel I belayed on was at Snafflehound Ledge. I guess mountains dont have gravel on ledges most of the time Oh well I suppose it is an opinion anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_b Posted July 12, 2002 Author Share Posted July 12, 2002 Personally I thought the best line was almost entirely composed of variations but admittedly I have not done the SB chimney (even though I do like chimneys). I like the alternate start, i.e. the crack system ~30' to the west of the Beckey start. Meet and continue the SB until almost level with the the western extension of snafflehound ledge, get up on the ledge, climb the right trending arching ramp/crack (visible in guidebook pic) which disappears into a knobby face toward the corner directly under the summit. Climb the corner crack to the top for ~ 2pitches. The max difficulty is probably ~10b. Everything (except for the lower sb pitches) is sustained at its grade .9-10 and prime rock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted July 12, 2002 Share Posted July 12, 2002 I thought the Burgner-Stanley route was a better climb than the Beckey-Davis because it is overall cleaner, more sustained, and ends up right at the summit. However, both are good and the W. Ridge is not a bad choice either. Anybody got an assessment of the Boving, Kearney, and Morales routes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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