Cpt.Caveman Posted June 14, 2002 Posted June 14, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Uncle Tricky: If you really need a map, the new Mountain Sports shop in Leavenworth is handing out photocopied topos. We didn't have one and just had fun picking lines and seeing if we could climb them. Werd up macrosoftie. Hear dat Peter Pubic Quote
Retrosaurus Posted June 14, 2002 Posted June 14, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Retrosaurus: ...the route that I lead the last time I was there had sprouted a bolt at the bottom and a bolt near the top ... Does anyone know about these bolts? Or do they just pop up like mushrooms after a good rain. quote: ...the route with the bolt in the overhang between the double cracks. Does anyone else wonder what that bolt is for? Has anyone else even climbed this route? Am I missing some thing or is this a stupid bolt? Quote
slothrop Posted June 14, 2002 Posted June 14, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: I tripped on a bolt once while slab walking and nearly took a whipper... Was that on Banana Peel? Quote
Dru Posted June 14, 2002 Posted June 14, 2002 What bolts on Banana Peel no it was on some overbolted slab at Seal Cove. Quote
Matt Posted June 14, 2002 Posted June 14, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Retrosaurus: ...the route with the bolt in the overhang between the double cracks. Does anyone else wonder what that bolt is for? Has anyone else even climbed this route? Am I missing some thing or is this a stupid bolt? I think I have climbed this route before the bolt was placed. If I remember correctly it was hard and wet and we stood on a log balanced in the snow to get past the hard wet part... does that count as climbing? [ 06-13-2002, 09:52 PM: Message edited by: Matt ] Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 14, 2002 Posted June 14, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Skisports: all you guys is do is complain do you ever Climb. I do have a topo. I might be willing to share but why?????? Nah man we never climb. Complaining is more fun. Plus we get gapers like you in on the complaining Quote
Retrosaurus Posted June 14, 2002 Posted June 14, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Matt: I think I have climbed this route before the bolt was placed. If I remember correctly it was hard and wet and we stood on a log balanced in the snow to get past the hard wet part... does that count as climbing?Probably not unless you bolted the log. Quote
slothrop Posted October 4, 2004 Posted October 4, 2004 After climbing at the Pearly Gates this past Saturday, I see what Retrosaurus is referring to. I thought I'd add my two cents of constructive criticism in case the FAs are reading. The first route ("bolt near the bottom") I'm guessing is Easy Pickins. The main feature of this route, two thin cracks separated by a sloping stance, is short but worthy. The bolt placements leave something to be desired, however. That first bolt is quite close to a protectable crack and is near your knee when you get to a good stance to clip it, anyway. I traversed in from the right on this route, since a "direct" start is quite a bit harder. IMHO, this first bolt is unnecessary and could be removed. The second bolt, near where you can traverse off left to Cloud Nine or right to No Room for Squares, is also close to a protectable crack and awkward to clip from the good stance after the crux. I'd say this bolt would be a lot better if it were two feet higher (my partner that day agrees) and might protect an ankle-breaking fall better that way. Pearly Gates is the next route Retrosaurus mentions, with the bolt at the roof. It's true that there is easy pro above the roof that you can place from a no-hands rest. Since the route was near my lead limit, I was happy to clip the bolt at the roof before thrutching into the chimney/rest. Without the bolt, I probably would have looked more carefully for pro just after the crux to protect me from hitting the slab below the roof if I slipped moving into the chimney. I think there were a couple potential placements, though none would protect against an ankle-breaker. Applying the principle of "protect for the leader at his/her limit", the roof bolt is reasonable. The climb itself is one of the most fun pitches I've done in a while. Thanks to the folks who have established routes at Pearly Gates, it's certainly one of the best crags in the Icicle. Quote
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