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What is the approach time like, do you stay to the left of the valley or right, and what is a typical "on route" time like for 2 people? I've been up to source lake once and we went in one way and cam out another. Thanks in advance.

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Posted

In addition to beating the crowds, you'll want to leave early to beat the softening of the snow when the sun comes out 1.) to make your approach quicker and 2.) to minimize avalanche potential. Consider a 6 AM start somewhere in the range of average to late.

 

In low avalanche conditions you can go up the left hand side of the creek all the way to Source Lake and cut a good half hour off your approach time. The cat track actually crosses over the creek midway, so look for a trail off to your left. That trail actually takes you directly to the avy slope, so use your discretion there.

 

Time to the base of the climb is about 2.5 hours at a brisk pace. We climbed the NE Buttress route with three and two on two ropes in about 10 hours car to car, not particularly fast.

Posted
In low avalanche conditions you can go up the left hand side of the creek all the way to Source Lake and cut a good half hour off your approach time. The cat track actually crosses over the creek midway, so look for a trail off to your left. That trail actually takes you directly to the avy slope, so use your discretion there.

 

I wouldn't plan on climbing anything on Chair unless you have safe avy conditions. If you are too worried about stability to go up the left (south) side of the river, fuhgedaboudit.

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