Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
Alpinfox

Best belay device to date? Anybody used one?

Recommended Posts

Black Diamond ATC-Guide

620051_atc_guide.jpg

$25 MSRP

 

-Autolocking mode like Reverso (but no sharp edges like reverso)

-High friction mode for skinny cord raps

 

Looks sweet!

 

Anybody used one?

 

Good review at rc.com

 

If it's good, I might replace my reverso with one of these when it wears out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hip belay.

belay.jpg

 

Actually the ATC-guide would get my vote. There are also some new devices coming out from CAMP and a few other companies that are similar in design.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd say the atc guide improves on the reverso by being lighter and no sharp edge, and improves on the b-52 by have one anchor point, not two biners for two ropes. Word is that little "un autoblock tab" is kinda worthless.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Word is that little "un autoblock tab" is kinda worthless.

 

I heard the same thing, but i bet you could sling some cord through it to be a little more usable.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I tried mine out for the first time this weekend in Canada; belay, rap & auto-lock. Really sweet device.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the show was sweet. I got to demo ski gear at Brighton, saw tons of new gear, won lots of schwag, drank more free beer than I should have, met lots of cool peeps, etc. good times!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What did Topher, Timmy and Micah have to say? Did they send you any cool pics of whippers at the Crick?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Black Diamond ATC-Guide

620051_atc_guide.jpg

$25 MSRP

 

-Autolocking mode like Reverso (but no sharp edges like reverso)

-High friction mode for skinny cord raps

 

Looks sweet!

 

Anybody used one?

 

Good review at rc.com

 

If it's good, I might replace my reverso with one of these when it wears out.

One of the relevant factoids I recall from the RC.com thread was that, whereas the ATC-XP was designed to have 3x the friction of the ATC, the ATC-Guide was designed to have 2x the friction of the ATC.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I got one from R.S. @ BD about three weeks ago. So far I have used 8.0mm half ropes which work well in autoblock mode. 9.2mm and 9.4mm single ropes cragging, and I just used a 10.2mm cord in it as well. I have not tried my 7.6mm twins in it yet, but I am guessing they will work just fine like the 8.0mm. It is the best at handling a wide range of diameters out of any of the devices I have used to date. It offers alot more friction than the Reverso when it's not used in autoblock mode (belayer below the climber). You can use a small wire to slip through the relese tab hole and clip the wire with a biner. The new 6mm Mammut slings that will be out in about a month would work well too like other folks have pointed out. I found the small nut trick to work fine. I have not personally tried the girth hitched method. It is close to the same weight as the ATC XP. There was another similar device by Simond at the show that had a device built into it for lowering folks off in autoblock mode, but it was a bit clunky and always there for the seldomly used lowering mode. Sorry I can't remember the name of that device off the top of my head right now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's good to hear about autoblock for 8 mm, because in my experience, the B52 is not reliable for small diameter ropes in this mode.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There was another similar device by Simond at the show that had a device built into it for lowering folks off in autoblock mode, but it was a bit clunky and always there for the seldomly used lowering mode. Sorry I can't remember the name of that device off the top of my head right now.

 

This device from Simond is called the Toucan ref#10026

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×