Alpinfox Posted February 1, 2006 Posted February 1, 2006 Black Diamond ATC-Guide $25 MSRP -Autolocking mode like Reverso (but no sharp edges like reverso) -High friction mode for skinny cord raps Looks sweet! Anybody used one? Good review at rc.com If it's good, I might replace my reverso with one of these when it wears out. Quote
kurthicks Posted February 1, 2006 Posted February 1, 2006 hip belay. Actually the ATC-guide would get my vote. There are also some new devices coming out from CAMP and a few other companies that are similar in design. Quote
Blake Posted February 1, 2006 Posted February 1, 2006 I'd say the atc guide improves on the reverso by being lighter and no sharp edge, and improves on the b-52 by have one anchor point, not two biners for two ropes. Word is that little "un autoblock tab" is kinda worthless. Quote
kurthicks Posted February 1, 2006 Posted February 1, 2006 Word is that little "un autoblock tab" is kinda worthless. I heard the same thing, but i bet you could sling some cord through it to be a little more usable. Quote
TrogdortheBurninator Posted February 1, 2006 Posted February 1, 2006 In the RC.com review they girth a mammut sling through it to release. I think the weight is actually a little heavy if i remember correctly from when I read that review. I definitely want one. Quote
mike_m Posted February 1, 2006 Posted February 1, 2006 I tried mine out for the first time this weekend in Canada; belay, rap & auto-lock. Really sweet device. Quote
kurthicks Posted February 1, 2006 Posted February 1, 2006 The best belay device is the one having the most fun. Quote
kurthicks Posted February 1, 2006 Posted February 1, 2006 the show was sweet. I got to demo ski gear at Brighton, saw tons of new gear, won lots of schwag, drank more free beer than I should have, met lots of cool peeps, etc. good times! Quote
Dru Posted February 1, 2006 Posted February 1, 2006 What did Topher, Timmy and Micah have to say? Did they send you any cool pics of whippers at the Crick? Quote
catbirdseat Posted February 1, 2006 Posted February 1, 2006 Black Diamond ATC-Guide $25 MSRP -Autolocking mode like Reverso (but no sharp edges like reverso) -High friction mode for skinny cord raps Looks sweet! Anybody used one? Good review at rc.com If it's good, I might replace my reverso with one of these when it wears out. One of the relevant factoids I recall from the RC.com thread was that, whereas the ATC-XP was designed to have 3x the friction of the ATC, the ATC-Guide was designed to have 2x the friction of the ATC. Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted February 1, 2006 Posted February 1, 2006 Get a fuckin' Grigri, already. Quote
catbirdseat Posted February 1, 2006 Posted February 1, 2006 Like those unfortunates in Eldorado Canyon? Quote
AFIVE Posted February 1, 2006 Posted February 1, 2006 I got one from R.S. @ BD about three weeks ago. So far I have used 8.0mm half ropes which work well in autoblock mode. 9.2mm and 9.4mm single ropes cragging, and I just used a 10.2mm cord in it as well. I have not tried my 7.6mm twins in it yet, but I am guessing they will work just fine like the 8.0mm. It is the best at handling a wide range of diameters out of any of the devices I have used to date. It offers alot more friction than the Reverso when it's not used in autoblock mode (belayer below the climber). You can use a small wire to slip through the relese tab hole and clip the wire with a biner. The new 6mm Mammut slings that will be out in about a month would work well too like other folks have pointed out. I found the small nut trick to work fine. I have not personally tried the girth hitched method. It is close to the same weight as the ATC XP. There was another similar device by Simond at the show that had a device built into it for lowering folks off in autoblock mode, but it was a bit clunky and always there for the seldomly used lowering mode. Sorry I can't remember the name of that device off the top of my head right now. Quote
catbirdseat Posted February 2, 2006 Posted February 2, 2006 That's good to hear about autoblock for 8 mm, because in my experience, the B52 is not reliable for small diameter ropes in this mode. Quote
AFIVE Posted February 2, 2006 Posted February 2, 2006 There was another similar device by Simond at the show that had a device built into it for lowering folks off in autoblock mode, but it was a bit clunky and always there for the seldomly used lowering mode. Sorry I can't remember the name of that device off the top of my head right now. This device from Simond is called the Toucan ref#10026 Quote
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