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Tucson area cragging?


tivoli_mike

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Drop over the backside of Mt. Lemmon to Rapell Rock, there are some nice routes there and some of the longest in the area, the Green Slabs are a nice place to get acclimated to the area, short 1/2-pitch sort of stuff, there is a route called Vista Cruiser up near the overlook which is really nice, its been a long time since I was there, lots of cool ccol stuff

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March is usually too early for Rappel Rock, which is up around 9000' If all you've got is an afternoon, your best bet is to head to Chimney Rock. Chimney has a stellar selection of one and two pitch routes in the 5.8 to 5.11 range. I recommend (from left to right):

 

Mistaken Identity 5.9: great wandery gear protected face and discontinuous crack climbing. bring small tricams

 

Centerpiece: 5.10-: more of the same, with crux bulge at the top.

 

Jungle Gym 5.10+: fun if you're feeling burly, rap at the end of p1.

 

Shriveled Penis 5.11: Thin crack, worth doing just for name, but climbing is good. 2nd pitch is good 5.9 crack

 

FIUTT 5.9 or 5.10: Name is acronym for "fuck it use the tree" and the route is 5.10 if you don't. Brilliant stemming, stay in the corner. 2 pitches.

 

Stripper 5.8: Fun moderate, same start as FIUTT

 

Crows Nest 5.10-: Splendid leaning corner, use a long rope and runners to string it into a single pitch. If I were going to do only one pitch there, this might be it.

 

A little higher up the mountain Windy Point offers tons of options, but you'll spend more time in the brush getting oriented in the profusion of fins, while Chimney is a single very short approach.

 

Oh, be aware that none of these are sport climbs.

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I am going to be cragging at Mt. Lemmon next week and was wondering what type of rack to go down there with. I am thinking of climbing at Castle Rock and the North Fin. Are there enough gear belays that would require doubling up? Is a single 60m rope sufficient? Is there a certain type of pro that works better than others?

 

Thank you.

 

Joe

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