Chad_A Posted January 1, 2006 Posted January 1, 2006 I don't remember hearing of, or seeing one, in particular. Robson, Athabasca, Andromeda, etc. Is there one "best" guidebook for this area? Quote
foraker Posted January 1, 2006 Posted January 1, 2006 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0921102...ks&v=glance Quote
Chad_A Posted January 1, 2006 Author Posted January 1, 2006 Thanks much! Looks like this is the one to get; if anyone knows of any others that are good, feel free to post it. Quote
genepires Posted January 2, 2006 Posted January 2, 2006 Oh boy, dougherty guidebook......book of sandbags and lies. Â This is the best guidebook only by being the only guidebook. Beware of sandbags and misinformation. Every route should be researched by asking for personal info and using your common sense. Some descents are nightmares. some ascents are underrated. Be ready for routes that are twice as hard as described. This book is one of the reasons such great hardman come out of canada. Â I can supply you some info on routes that I have done. Quote
Dru Posted January 2, 2006 Posted January 2, 2006 The ACC/AAC published two complete guides in the 1970s. Â They are called "A Climbers Guide to the Rocky Mountains of Canada - North" and "-South" respectively. Â South covers everything south of the Columbia Icefield North covers Icefields to Robson. Â Very shitty old school guides but they are all that is out there for comprehensive books! Â you can usually find copies on Abebooks for about $15.00 Â like for instance: click me! Quote
Chad_A Posted January 2, 2006 Author Posted January 2, 2006 Thanks for all the insight. Guess it pays to ask around a bit. How the hell does a guidebook get so far off? Maybe the author never climbed any of the routes? Â Glad Dru posted that, I would've never known about that one. Â Gene, check your PMs. Foraker- still glad you chimed in. Thanks for taking the time. Â -Chad Quote
Dru Posted January 2, 2006 Posted January 2, 2006 The reason Dougherty guide has a reputation for sandbags is becauise the author assumes you are an experienced climber who knows what you are doing! Â As opposed to the Beckey "Descend obvious gully" Dougherty just tells you "Descend easiest way" because you- as an experienced climber, will know that you should go down via the gully rather than the shitty scree covered ledges of doom. Â You have to read the guidebook while imagining you are Barry Blanchard. Then it all makes sense. Quote
foraker Posted January 2, 2006 Posted January 2, 2006 No problem. I haven't been on any of the routes in the area I just have to book. Good to know about it's faults though. Will make me more suspect if/when I get over there. Quote
Chad_A Posted January 2, 2006 Author Posted January 2, 2006 You have to read the guidebook while imagining you are Barry Blanchard. Then it all makes sense. Â Damn. I'm screwed! That's a great quote, haha! Quote
John Frieh Posted January 2, 2006 Posted January 2, 2006 I love in the intro his discussion on climbing in the winter... I don't have it in front of me but to paraphrase: "...smart climbers spend the winter in front of a roaring fire with their lover and a bottle of wine..." I need to reread that more often... or perhaps glue a laminated copy to my ice tools.  Also he has an excellent discussion on what the infamous CAN 5.9 A2 rating is all about (not to be confused with the infamous Devil’s Club 5.9 A2 rating ). Quote
Cobra_Commander Posted January 3, 2006 Posted January 3, 2006 just remember the guy on the cover is climbing 5.9. Â also take global warming into consideration on some of the icefall complications, approaches, etc. Quote
Chad_A Posted January 3, 2006 Author Posted January 3, 2006 Yeah, I was kind of thinking about that. My pal who climbs down in Peru regularly says that it's changing by the year down there. Quote
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