Here's a test

[crazyjizzy]

Aires, 5.10a crack under 5.6 handcrack on slab. In Fred Beckeys 1976 guidebook, Diane Dailey can be seen climbing the aforementioned crack, with a big block at the start. When, and how, did the block fall?

Fred Grafton and BJ are pals again. Everytime Fred see's BJ and friends, he says "it the pig's head guys".

[pope]

My memories pretty hazy, but I could sware that Mike told me he was there when the block fell...right under it! He apparently got the end of his rope cut, but then turned around and climbed it before the dust settled.

[ScottP]

quote:

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Originally posted by pope:

My memories pretty hazy, but I could sware that Mike told me he was there when the block fell...right under it! He apparently got the end of his rope cut, but then turned around and climbed it before the dust settled.

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Sometime during the week of October 13th-18th, 1991 that block fell off. I was out there on the 13th and again on the 18th where my partner and I saw that it had come off. I led up the lower part just to see what it looked like only to find that every conceiveable edge (including the mantle into the depression left by the block) that could hold dirt was undisturbed. The crack behind the block that took a yellow tcu to protect the moves from the depression to the traverse was completely filled with dirt. I unearthed a placement, swept off some more holds and proceeded into the traverse and the rest of the pitch.

I later spoke to some guys who say they were there and that a part of their rope is under the debris, but they never said a word about climbing it.

I also later heard rumor that Fred Grafton got the first ascent, though from the completely undisturbed nature of the rock uncovered by the block falling off, I believe that I got there first.

It would be fun to talk to Mike about this.

 

[Dru]

Isnt WB Walter Bonatti and the apologies, for stealing the FA of a Bonatti Pillar lookalike?

[Hemlock]

It was in fact MM. We've discussed this before. He had led the pitch, belayed his buddy up, and then watched while the flake pitched. He immediately snagged the first ascent of (as named by an Index local) Neutered Prince.

The historic pig's head on Model Worker is the work of another colorful Index local with the initials MM. I have photos.

[pope]

Hey Hemlock, I knew you'd make it. Nice place here. Didn't you just love the Neutered Prince quiz question? "Who did the first ascent of blah blah blah?" Answer: "I did." Does somebody need a pat on the back?

[ScottP]

quote:

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Originally posted by pope:

Hey Hemlock, I knew you'd make it. Nice place here. Didn't you just love the Neutered Prince quiz question? "Who did the first ascent of blah blah blah?" Answer: "I did." Does somebody need a pat on the back?

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No pat needed, thanks (though I do think you are being overly sensitive about the whole thing). I asked the question to see if anybody else was claiming the first ascent. I find it interesting that I sent a letter to Smoot about it with the same name change only days after I climbed it.

If Massey says he got it first, that's fine with me. I would still like to hear how he did it without disturbing any of the dirt on the holds.

 

[Peter_Puget]

And Mer is almost right. Almost because it was named after the dead boys not PJ. But wasnt the questionabout the block in reference to a route on the Great Northern Slab not Princely Ambitions?

[crazyjizzy]

Peter Puget: There were questions about both Princely Ambitions, and the Great Northern Slab blocks. The latter has not been answered yet.

Hemlock: There were several pig riggers, and it would be wrong to credit only one.

[Hemlock]

crazy: Indeed. Pardon me. Thanks for pointing out another of my foibles.

I would imagine MM as the ringleader of the circus, however.

[AlpineK]

Hemlock,

There are people who are experts on pig rigging who frequent this web site. watch your step.

[Hemlock]

alpine: There... huh?