Fence_Sitter Posted October 29, 2002 Posted October 29, 2002 any possibility for climbing the demming route still? how far could we get up if we are willing to do some ice clibming (and down )...thanks in advance... Quote
mattp Posted October 29, 2002 Posted October 29, 2002 We get this every year. "Is the Coleman-Demming route still open?" ... "No way - my friend's sister-in-law turned back at 8,500' last week because it was totally blocked by a big crevasse." ... "Yeah, but I climbed it with only ski poles. It is casual, dude." The answer to your question depends on you. It has been several seasons since I've been there at this time of the year, and my last mid-season trip led me to conclude that the Coleman has opened up somewhat over the years, but I have climbed both the Coleman-Demming and the North Ridge in October/November, and had absolutely no problem either time. (We did not have to climb down into and back out of any crevasses, though there were some rather interesting "bridges.") Even with no current information of any kind, I bet there is not more than one or two troublesome crevasses and, if you are in fact able to to "climb up and down ice," probably not even that. Be aware, though, that this is perhaps the most dangerous time of the year for crevasse falls. Fresh snowbridges, unstable weather (and likely poor visibility), coupled with short daylight ... Quote
Fence_Sitter Posted October 29, 2002 Author Posted October 29, 2002 yeah i am an able climber...jsut wonderin if it was actually possible (without taking 5 days). i am not afraid at turnin back, but i will do soemthing else if it looks like a total mess... thanks for the input though much appreciated... Quote
Fence_Sitter Posted October 29, 2002 Author Posted October 29, 2002 oh and as an alternate, is there still good ice craggin to be had around there? (contingency plan) thanks for the help MattP Quote
mountainguy01 Posted October 29, 2002 Posted October 29, 2002 Climbed the Coleman-Deming Sat. and was in pretty good condition. We left the trailhead at 6:30am and summited at 1:00pm. Above heliotrope the shrund is pretty big and you traverse right on the bottom lip of it. At about 8500' there are a few snow bridges to cross and they are very solid. Right after you pass underneath Colfax there is 50-60 degree serac (if you want to call it that) that you must climb over (~15 vertical feet)and then traverse a thin snow ridge for ~100 feet. The Roman Wall is water ice covered with rime ice at about 10'000'. One can easily traverse over to the Easton and up for an easier ascent to the summit. The entire route is very straight forward and is hard ice/snow. Didn't use a rope and at the top it was clear and no wind. This trip definately made up for the previous weekend of getting to the Col and turning around in a blizzard. There is some nice steep water ice setting up near heliotrope and higher on the mountain too. Quote
Fence_Sitter Posted October 29, 2002 Author Posted October 29, 2002 sweet...thanks a lot...sounds like we'll have a fun trip if the weather holds up...thanks all... Quote
Fence_Sitter Posted October 29, 2002 Author Posted October 29, 2002 headed up friday night and climb sunday...are you headed up that way? Quote
skykilo Posted October 29, 2002 Posted October 29, 2002 The Coleman Deming isn't too bad. I was last there Oct. 14th. Just below the saddle there's a nice little ice step and traverse above a big crevasse, but it can be done in a day. Quote
JoshK Posted October 29, 2002 Posted October 29, 2002 matt, very generally, what was the north ridge like this time of year? -josh Quote
thelawgoddess Posted October 29, 2002 Posted October 29, 2002 quote: Originally posted by mountainguy01: The Roman Wall is water ice covered with rime ice at about 10'000'. did you go up the wall? (wasn't sure from your post.) Quote
Mr._Chips Posted October 29, 2002 Posted October 29, 2002 I soloed the Coleman Headwall a couple weeks ago. It was solid. There were the expected crevasses and schrunds to negotiate but not too bad when you fully expect it. One day trip car to car. Having good weather helped out too. The coleman was a breeze to come down. I planned to and succeeded in missing the first larger snowfalls, however, there is now new snow, how much I do not know. Quote
mattp Posted October 29, 2002 Posted October 29, 2002 When I climbed the north ridge at this time of year it was not really any more difficult than when I climbed it mid-season a few years later. In the Fall, there was an approach pitch on 35 degree ice that was mostly snow midsummer, but the steeper pitch was just about the same. Like Chips said, most crevasses or 'schrunds are not all that much of a problem if you are expecting them (just don't let one sneak up from behind and pounce on your neck) and there were none of any terrible consequence on the North Ridge. Quote
skykilo Posted October 29, 2002 Posted October 29, 2002 Yeah, there are a lot more crevasse problems coming from the Easton and Squak. The Coleman's not bad. Get to the top of the pumice ridge, take a deep breath, and sprint the roman headwall with front point's a-blazin'. Quote
mountainguy01 Posted October 30, 2002 Posted October 30, 2002 We did make it up the Roman Wall. It wasn't a problem, just wouldn't want to slip. There were a few slings on the rocks right above the wall that people were rapping off but it wan't neccessary. It is possible to traverse over to the Easton and up. Quote
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