Dru Posted November 21, 2005 Posted November 21, 2005 I have had one particular project since July, when I scrubbed it. At the time I was unable to successfully top-rope the crux moves. Second go-round on it was August when I worked it for another day. This time I could top-rope the moves but couldn't link it together. I had hoped to bolt it then but after drilling two bolts my drill ranout of juice. Now several months later, and still with this thing simmering in the back of mind - a perfect, sunny, cold fall day - I head out there again. Solo up the 5.6 next to it and drop a rope down. A little bit of brushing on the way down to clean off accumulated dirt and needles that have trickled down from above. At the bottom I put on my shoes and squeak the soles clean. Lock the Ushba on the rope and go. And this time it comes easily and I climb it no falls. Cold, sunny day with good friction. The moves I had been thinking about for months worked like I had planned. All is good. Of course it turned out that my drill battery is now fucked and it won't take a charge so it will probably be another few months before I get the rig bolted and sent! But this post is simply a paean in praise of having a project. They feel so good when they get done Quote
Cobra_Commander Posted November 21, 2005 Posted November 21, 2005 be sure to name it dru's dreadful direct and gridbolt it Quote
catbirdseat Posted November 21, 2005 Posted November 21, 2005 The rare instance Dru posts something meaningful and you dump on it. Well what goes around comes around, eh? Quote
Cobra_Commander Posted November 21, 2005 Posted November 21, 2005 Shouldn't you be recalibrating your hex collection? A few micrograms of metal have shaved off and it would be a pity to place the wrong size Quote
RuMR Posted November 21, 2005 Posted November 21, 2005 yes oh yes...and those missing micrograms of metal have DRASTICALLY reduced the section strength of said hexes... now scurry off and recalculate the new bending/torque/shear capacities to see if they will hold the anchor knots that you will be tying just like in fig 12.a, page 43 of the FreedomoftheHills volume 52... Quote
Geek_the_Greek Posted November 21, 2005 Posted November 21, 2005 So will the world soon be graced with another fine bolted 5.9? Quote
RuMR Posted November 21, 2005 Posted November 21, 2005 i'm gonna get the second ascent and downrate it to 5.8a/b Quote
Dru Posted November 21, 2005 Author Posted November 21, 2005 On a slab climb like this, fat is aid. Quote
RuMR Posted November 21, 2005 Posted November 21, 2005 to a point...a big enough gut pushes you out... Quote
Dru Posted November 21, 2005 Author Posted November 21, 2005 with a sticky rubber mesh t-shirt, though, you could get a belly scum on the mantles. Quote
tlinn Posted November 22, 2005 Posted November 22, 2005 So any idea what you`re going to call it? Quote
tlinn Posted November 22, 2005 Posted November 22, 2005 Nice send by the way...I have had the privledge of seeing it and I can vouch that it`s not that easy. Quote
Dru Posted November 22, 2005 Author Posted November 22, 2005 i have to bolt it and lead it before i name it. otherwise its a guaranteed jinx. Quote
lancegranite Posted November 22, 2005 Posted November 22, 2005 Today's project climb handed me my hat. Sometimes a sucessful retreat is as meaningful as a sucessful send. I took a nap in the shade to celebrate. Quote
David Trippett Posted November 22, 2005 Posted November 22, 2005 (edited) yet another bolted slab in Squamish?.....fantastic. Edited November 22, 2005 by avitripp Quote
Cobra_Commander Posted November 22, 2005 Posted November 22, 2005 I'm gonna come chop it and lead it with pink tricams. Quote
gosolo Posted November 22, 2005 Posted November 22, 2005 I'm gonna come chop it and lead it with pink tricams. Quote
David Trippett Posted November 22, 2005 Posted November 22, 2005 in squamish? fuck no! great...bolt on. Have you tried the low-impact alternative of snaffle slinging? Quote
Dru Posted November 22, 2005 Author Posted November 22, 2005 that only works on pagetops.... (foreshadowing) Quote
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