glassgowkiss Posted November 21, 2005 Share Posted November 21, 2005 (edited) Klatu Verata N... (200 m, WI3 M6) FA: Robert Rogoz & Raphael Slawinski, Nov. 13, 2005 Approach the N face of the Wedge via the popular hiking/scrambling trail, starting at Wedge Pond. It is best to walk up the rounded ridge all the way to the base of the mountain (packs can be left here), then traverse down and right below the rock to the route. KVN follows the left-hand and shorter of two gully/chimney systems on the N face of the Wedge. Climb a pitch up a low-angle corner with a narrow stream of thin styrofoam (fun climbing with excellent rock gear). Slog up the snow gully for about two ropelengths to where it dead-ends in a big overhang. The crux exit pitch avoids the overhang by a traverse right on a steep snow ledge to an arête. From the end of the traverse, the pitch goes more or less straight up, with increasingly difficult drytooling and mixed climbing. 70 m ropes hit the ridgeline with a couple of metres to spare. A belay in the loose rock and scree at the top may be difficult to arrange. To descend, walk easily down the backside to rejoin the approach ridge. Take a full rock rack (set of wires, cams to #3 or 4 Camalot, good selection of pins); however, screws are excess baggage. 2 notes #1 the snow slope in the middle was brutal. at the end about 5-6 attempts to make one move up. #2. i would add maybe pg to rating of the last pitch. it is also time consuming, since it took close to 3 hours to do it. Edited November 21, 2005 by jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted November 21, 2005 Share Posted November 21, 2005 Sweet! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted November 21, 2005 Share Posted November 21, 2005 Nice Bob! Sure looks cool! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted November 21, 2005 Share Posted November 21, 2005 is this corner a summer route too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted November 21, 2005 Author Share Posted November 21, 2005 all photos are from Raphael Slawinski collection. the route- chimney in the middle of face was climbed last weekend by Slawinski-Gadd team. for people going there over the thanksgiving: it's really, really warm this year with quite a lot of snow higher up. a lot of stuff lower down simply isn't in, even the usual climbs (like professor's) are just running water. higher up avi danger has to be taken into consideration. if you are thinking about a lot of moderate ice close to the road you might consider changing your plans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted November 21, 2005 Author Share Posted November 21, 2005 dru, there was a summer route between the 2 chimney systems. it was climbed by Ben Gadd, so the new route up the central chimney is yet another Gadd fammily addition to the rockies Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted November 21, 2005 Share Posted November 21, 2005 It looks like pretty good rock in that corner alright. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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