ivan Posted November 18, 2005 Posted November 18, 2005 shit, can't believe the weather's staying this good down here in pdx this weekend. anyone wanna go out and see how dry beacon is? i'm thinking saturday would be best, but sunday works too... Quote
JosephH Posted November 18, 2005 Posted November 18, 2005 I was out there yesterday - blowing, but completely dry because of it and great. I'll be going out Sunday. Quote
MtnHigh Posted November 20, 2005 Posted November 20, 2005 BillA and I were going to look for ice on I-Rock, but Nolse emailed me Friday night saying that everything had melted off. So as a consolation we headed to Beacon Saturday morning, knowing that it would be cold and windy, but we were seeking challeging conditions. I learned real quick how difficult it is to grip holds with frozen hands while a 40mph wind gust tries to rip you off the rock. We did one pitch and bailed for the bar. The wind was even bad on Beacon's west side. It was blowing horizontally across the rock there. Who's got the fixed line hanging off of Blood, Sweat and Smears or Flying Circus (right above the 3rd tunnel)? Quote
John Frieh Posted November 20, 2005 Posted November 20, 2005 I learned real quick how difficult it is to grip holds with frozen hands while a 40mph wind gust tries to rip you off the rock. Next time just drytool it with gloves on Quote
ivan Posted November 21, 2005 Author Posted November 21, 2005 ha! pussy! oleg n' i were out there today in similiar conditions and had a royal time (despite the savage slav neglecting to bring either gloves or hat). topping out on the final scramble up to the trail i couldn't help but chortle repetively like a madman at the insane hurricane conditions - gusts near 40 mph i reckon - the entire right side of my face numb like i was on a cocaine-disco-bash from the days of yore! i climbed the whole day in my trango boots in preparation for the long alpine rock season that stretches before us and had a fucking blast...jon, i thought you were going up to l-worth? i hadn't been up to the top of beacon in a year, but today i convinced oleg to make the walk b/c the conditiosn were so raw and nasty it had all the feeling of a fantastic alpine climb - how could we skip the summit? goddamit, why can't beacon be open yearround? Quote
John Frieh Posted November 21, 2005 Posted November 21, 2005 Freezing level was/is too high for my tastes... guess I'm getting conservative in my old age That and I return to the fold on Monday so long sabbatical Parts of beacon are open year round! Quote
ivan Posted November 21, 2005 Author Posted November 21, 2005 i love how has conquered the board in just a few short days... so sad, john, does this mean we don't get to take endless stupid trips up to the stuart range this winter? i'm in this romantic quest to climb jo'burg next month, interested? the only shit on beacon open year round is the rock equivalent of jerry-springer worthy 500-kg snatch-aholie crack sniffing shit on the north side - all dank and totally unworthy. if it could be ruthlessly cleaned it could probably be made worhty. my main reason for supporting joe's crusade has been to allow this area to be developed (well, actually, that's bullshit- i want the south side to be opened yearround more - but that north side has great potential for development if it can just be subjagated to the brush) Quote
John Frieh Posted November 21, 2005 Posted November 21, 2005 That 10b on the north side (forget the name) that is two bolts before you turn the roof (gear from there on) is super cool! All pro above the roof is super cerebral too... none of this plug and tug stuff of the north side. Not dank at all... Don't worry about not getting out this winter... you know me and you know I wouldn't take a job that would interfere with all that extreme hiking we love to do Get yer to dtnight and bring Oleg! Quote
ivan Posted November 21, 2005 Author Posted November 21, 2005 dt'ing this tuesday? i can make that work... Quote
John Frieh Posted November 21, 2005 Posted November 21, 2005 I'm thinking Tuesday but wait and let me check with some peps... I'll announce whatever it ends up being in the PDX DT thread Quote
iain Posted November 21, 2005 Posted November 21, 2005 Meanwhile the skiing in the cascades is spectacular. Quote
JosephH Posted November 21, 2005 Posted November 21, 2005 MtnHigh, That was my haul line on "Flying Dutchman" for the anchor replacement project and I just took it down yesterday as it was getting pretty beat up in the wind and we're not going to be doing a whole lot more this year the way the weather is shaping up. It was pretty burly out there yesterday with some of the strongest winds I've experienced out there, but still a surprising number of folks were out with parties on "Blownout", "SE Corner", "Psychic Wound", and "Young Warriors". I had to do the "Flying Dutchman" raps with the rope stacked on my right arm feeding it as I went or it would just blown horizontal and whip around otherwise. Bummer I didn't have a camera with me as I came down on the folks on "Psychic Wound". Also, I had a Petzl Spirit biner and a 24" dynemma sling literally "blow" off an open gate while I was cleaning the SE Corner slab pitch. Forgot to look for it on the way out, so give a shout if you happen to run across them, thanks. Also, in the near term (not sure when I'll get time exactly) I'll be putting up info relative to BRCA/BRSP and the status of various efforts and plans we're jointly working on that includes new route protocol on the NW face. Joseph Quote
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