Route Reports

nightfly · August 23, 2002

Hey Everybody.

Only two weeks left for me in the pacific northwest for awhile. With a week and a half of time off before we go i wanted to get out a bit. i have been looking around but time is short. Looking for condition beta on these routes and any others that have been kller outings for folks. feel free to post if you have any info i would appreciate it greatly thanks.

How cold has it been getting at night in the pickets lately? has it been consistant?

Buckner north face. Any Ice?

Norheast face/ridge Forrbidden?

Stairway to heaven coulor, J-berg? (that just my name for it)

North central rib Triumph

Fisher Chimny"s and the north face on Shuksan

Baker's north ridge.

Or anything else for that matter that has been good to folks. I would like to get in some good ice but it just might be a bit early for that yet any way thanks for your posts.

James

layton · August 24, 2002

Please go do N.Face Central rib of truimph and post a TR.

David_Parker · August 24, 2002

I was in northern pickets Aug.18 to 22. It did not drop below freezing at night at Luna Col (elev. 7100). We encountered no real "ice" on N.rib of Fury, nor did the NE Face appear to have any real ice. If that wasn't ice, I'm not sure where it will be. BTW, I define ice as the substance that will actually take an ice screw!

N.Face couloir of Buckner way have a couple moves of ice; N. Face proper probably none. I don't know why people do the N. Face of Buckner when the couloir is so much more "alpine" and only 10 minutes more to get to. It was a big snow year and I don't think the alpine ice is going to appear until well into Sept. Good luck and let us know if you find some! [big Grin]

Off_White · August 24, 2002

What are you referring to as Stairway to Heaven on J-berg? Do you mean the lower extension of that couloir you rap into on NE Rib? I've always looked at that line, I thought of it as Looking Down The Barrel of a Dream.

I think good alpine ice is sort of hard to find in the Cascades. I spent a few years trying to find the equivalent of those lovely Sierra couloirs, but never did. Thats not to say its not out there, I'm sure some here have found that grail now and then, but I suspect the lower elevations lead to warmer night time temps and just not enough of that freeze-thaw cycle that converts the white stuff into the blue. I suggest you make use of the stable weather and tick some good rock routes.

Sorry, I have no current info for you, but I do second Mr. Layton's suggestion.

[ 08-24-2002, 11:27 AM: Message edited by: Off White ]

Jens · August 24, 2002

Just got back this from attmepting a new line up in the Cascade pass area.

While Driving on the river road, I stopped and looked at the CJ couloir you are taliking about with the binocs just for shits and giggles.

I counted at least 4 wall to wallers. The narrow contriction was melted out in 2 places.

And the the finish had a patch that was blue ice. this planet is really get warmer! We went up and down the thing last Sept. And it was holding a lot more volume. This was big snow winter and it's still August.

It is climbable but you will need rock gear and will need to be solid on 5.6 rock in your crampons.

[big Drink] [HORSECOCK]