Sahale Peak: Boston basin or Sahale Arm approach?

[JoshK]

Anybody seen the glaciers on the Sahale approaches recetly? I'm heading up tommorow and since I'm solo, I want to go whatever way has the most straighforward glacier crossing. From what I can tell, the Sahale glacier is almost always a better bet than the Quien Sabe.

 

Anybody?

 

-josh

[mattp]

I'd go for the Sahale if you're looking for minimal crevasses. Good luck with the black flies -- I've heard they are pretty bad up there right now.

[Cpt.Caveman]

I dont know how they look. I'd go up Sahale arm. Death to black flies that bite.

[Gary_Yngve]

I was up there a few days ago via Sahale Arm. My only complaint was the trail kept switchbacking when I wanted the more direct route. Start early enough in the morning and keep moving and the flies won't be a problem at all. Queen Sabe has a few crevasses on it, but navigation is straight forward. Sahale Glacier felt more like the Muir Snowfield.

[JoshK]

Cool, thanks guys; I figured the arm would be the way to go.

 

Is a light rope useful for repelling off the summit rocks, or is the downclimbing straightforward?

 

-josh

[AOC]

I've been up both ways late season and the Sahale Arm approach is surely your best bet for soloing. Last year, at least, the Quien Sabe was quite broken up in August, while the Sahale had just one easily negotiated crack.

[mattp]

The summit rocks are third class in the traditional sense: most people do not need a rope but some do.

[AOC]

I hauled a rope up there because I heard the downclimbing might be awkward. But I never used it. There is only one low 5th class move directly beneath the (spectacular) summit block.

[Alex]

The Quien Sabe is in fine shape right now, almost completely filled in. It wont present much of a navigational challenge at all.

 

I prefer the Quien Sabe to Sahale Arm - both are day trips to the summit, but with Quien Sabe you are motoring on snow within 3 hours of leaving the car, while the Arm just keeps going and going and going, and then you have to deal with a big boulder hopping slope. It takes closer to 5 hours to finally get on "motoring" terrain, and then the rest of the route is very short. I'd rather climb more and traverse that nice ridge from Boston Sahale col to Sahale summit than plod up the Arm anyday...

 

Alex

[Alpine_Tom]

I'm with Alex. I travered it (up Boston Basin, down Sahale Arm), to see what the arm was like. It was tedious. Kind of pretty in spots, I guess, that lake (doubtful lake?) is sort of pretty. But the trail goes on for bloody ever. At the risk of sounding like a snob, it's also really crowded with casual hiker types. It's as busy as the Snow Lake trail at Alpental.

The Boston Basin trail is a little bit of a challenge with the blowdowns, but it's not bad, and Boston Basin is just gorgeous. I was up there two weeks back, and the crevasses didn't seem serious.

(BTW, I solo'd it, about this time of the year, in 2000.)

 

Re the summit: I'm a complete coward on rock, and I would have preferred a rope to descend from the summit of Sahale, but I got down okay without one, in heavy leather boots.

[lizard_brain]

I was up there via the Sahale Arm last week. The glacier seemed more like a snowfield than a glacier. I've not been up the Quien Sabe, but I hear that the Sahale Arm is not only easier, but the more scenic of the two. And from my experience there, I'd say I believe it.

[Guest]

I have climbed both of these routes. I think the Sahale Arm offers the grander panoramic views most of the way up. The Quien Sabe Glacier is nice but a slight bit over rated, with views not nearly as good. It kind of reminds me of kicking steps on Rainier. There are crevasses and sometimes snow bridges on the Quien Sabe Glacier which is another reason to vote for not soloing it unless you feel up to the task. Go for the arm I say.

[Self_propelled]

I did a cool route last Sept. Started at BB traversed to Sahale Arm, across Sahale Glacier, up over summit of Sahale, then down towards Boston Peak and on down the Quien Sabe (gotta love the name!) and back to camp. Moderate pace and we started at 4AM and were back at camp by 2. A cool variation would be to stash rock gear at Shrkfin Col on the night before then climb the Sharkfin on the way down.

 

Cheers, I'm finally off to Nepal on Tues. be in Kathmandu for 2 years. If you are coming through PM me!

 

Namaste

[Cpt.Caveman]

Why the heck would somebody walk all the way up to Sharkfin col to stash gear, the back over to Sahale Arm to camp, and finally return the next day It's not like you need much pro to climb Sharkfin anyways.

 

Have fun in Asia.

[Self_propelled]

Camp in Boston Basin, not Sahale Arm.

[Ned_Flanders]

Boston Basin all the way. Much faster then Sahale Arm. There are cool cracks to look at also. There is this one freakin crack that is so big and deep, i thought it was a nice plateau to take a break. i ran up to it and it was this freakin big ass crack. also much more beautiful to be at the boston-sahale col and more fun of a climb from down there.

[Alex]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Ned Flanders:

...was this freakin big ass crack.

---