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[TR] Mt Hood- Horror on the Hogsback Arete! 11/17/2005


ivan

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Climb: Mt Hood-Horror on the Hogsback Arete!

 

Date of Climb: 11/17/2005

 

Trip Report:

the first "hood lap" of the season went down this morning. meself and 3 folks i'm too tired to remember either the names or faces of took on the dramatic and engaging hogsback arete of the might mt hood. oddly, we encountered a large number (about 10) of folks who had simliar ideas of getting some excericise in at 11 PM on a wendsday. the slopes above the lift are in double-plus good crampooning shape, but the chute through the pearly gates is currently damn spicy w/ just a single axe and alum cramps. the 'schrund has it's head up it's ass.

 

question: i saw a lot of light coming from a structure down the wy'east arm, about the same altitude as silcox but across the great gorge of the white glacier - is that new? i don't remember seeing it before.

 

now it's time to finish fusing two days of work into one

 

Gear Notes:

a second tool and steel crampons would have been nice for the butt-clenching mixed moves on delicate rime feathers lightly attached to frozen mud that currently marks the pearly gate chute

 

Approach Notes:

titties

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question: i saw a lot of light coming from a structure down the wy'east arm, about the same altitude as silcox but across the great gorge of the white glacier - is that new? i don't remember seeing it before.

 

Aren't these $$$bastards building a new chairlift? Soon, Hood will become a Bachelor#2 cry.gif

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Also note worthy were the NUMEROUS fractures all along the Crater Rock traverse with a surprise slide just below the Hogsback. Oh and the constant sound of chandeliers crashing coming from the Steel Cliffs. We bailed. I think the mountain was talking to us and telling us that our post work conditioning climb was not going to include a summit. Sometimes the mountain speaks and you have to listen. South Side I know....but does anyone really have anything to prove on that route?

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jez, drew, and i left timberline around 6:30 p.m. i don't know if i'd call the cramponing "double plus good" with all of that rime, but maybe we took a different line above the palmer. from what i saw, anyone headed up there in these warm conditions should be wary of icefall. i turned round just before crater and ran into ivan's group on the way down -- my partners held out 'till the hogsback. chris, i emailed jess, but think she has plans.

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