Chamonix/Euro Ice Climbing?

[TimL]

Anybody have experience climbing WI in Chamonix. If so, how does it compare to the Rockies in amount of climbs and crowds? Taking a two week trip at the end of January, and its a toss-up between Norway, Chamonix or the Canadian Rockies. Weird enough, with the Euro everything is around the same price. Norway looks nice, but the general area appears to be equal to Littlewet. Not sure I want to hang out in the local bar every night for two weeks. Any ideas?

[specialed]

One of my primary ice partners spent A LOT of time in Cham. I'm sure someone else here knows more from personal experience than I, but I have seen some pictures. The ice looks pretty consistent and close. Also, there is the opportunity for longer alpine ice routes if the conditions are good. Though January might not be the best time for that.

It would be a change of pace from the Rockies too.

[Stuart]

I don't know how it compares to the Rockies as I've haven't made the trip up there yet, but the ice can be good in January. The cremerie involves no cable cars or trains, but is lower in elevation and all that goes with that - crowds at weekends, wet ice/no ice. The ice on the banks of the Argentiere glacier or the Mer de Glace are good bets, but have avy terrain above sections of them. There's also the stuff on Mont Blanc du Tacul (Chere couloir, Supercouloir etc) which is higher, still easy to get to, but longer on average (ascent and descent). I seem to remember that the new 2 volume version of Neige, Glace et Mixte is out in Europe, but haven't seen it over here. I haven't looked very hard though... Have fun wherever you go - lucky bugger.

[Dru]

What about Val D'aosta?

[sobo]

That place is schweet! I love VdA!

[miller]

Hey Tim!

 

I've spent a bunch of time in all of those places. Norway is superb, but I don't think I'd want to go back in January again - it was too cold and the days are too short so the ice is very brittle and there is very little temperature variation to get it nice and right. All of my Norwegian friends seemed disappointed for me and kept telling me I had to come back in March. Also, Norway is insanely expensive - if I didn't have people to stay with, there is no way I could have afforded it.

 

Chamonix has a bit of ice climbing - actually a fair amount, but I say a bit because if you're looking for waterfall ice climbing there are much better regions in France to consider. The Aoste region in Italy is great and is just through the tunnel, but the tunnel is expensive and you'd be better off just staying over there.

 

The areas around Briancon in the southern Alps offer much better ice climbing, and there is a TON of stuff to do down there. That is the only place I've been to that I would say is on par with the Canadian Rockies. There are several guidebooks available for the area, and there is a shop in Briancon (I think it is called "Alpimat") where you can get them. Lots of gites in the area too. Excellent ice, beautiful area, all kinds of routes to do. Some areas ,like La Grave, get fairly crowded because there are beautiful 300 meter routes a few hundred feet from the road (one in particular actually starts ON the road). Other areas like Fournel tend to be a bit more peaceful because there is a bit of an approach - a few hours for the stuff farther back in the valley. If you are based near Briancon, you could expect to drive anywhere from a few minutes to 2+ hours to have access to all of the areas. It might even make sense, if you have the time, to base out of the Oisans area for a few days then head over to the other side of Briancon near Fournel for a few days. Yah yah - just go - you'll be psyched.

 

Have fun!

 

-Todd

Edited November 26, 2005 by miller

[TimL]

Wow, some great information. Thanks to everyone. Right now we ruled Norway out. Maybe for a week, but not two later in the year. Thinking about France/Italy, or back to the Canadian Rockies. I want to try to search for more information on Briancon. La Grave and Chamonix. For sure I don´t want to spend the entire time in one place, but split it up. As for the Rockies, Although I´ve been there many times, they are high on the list because the place is just so good. Not to mention the exchange rate for the Euro is pretty good now.

[joel20]

Well, the towns surrounding Chamonix are pretty good. IF you stay at Les Houches many of the falls are within walking distance and there is ski area right there.

 

In Argentiere there is the cremerie which is also right next to the Grand Montets ski area.

 

If you stay in Chamonix you can catch the bus to either of these areas or you can go up the Aguille du Midi lift and walk across the way to that wall of ice in front of you.It is also the same lift that you take to ski or board down the Valle Blanche.

 

Better than that I think would be to go across the Mont Blanc tunnel into Cogne Italy if all you want is ice fall climbing. It's better I think and I'll probably stay there at least a few weeks upon my separation from the army because they have routes all the way up to M10 which I am not even good enough to climb yet but it's something to work towards.

 

All I have to say is don't over do it. At least take some rest days to ski or board and eat some good French food.

[miller]

I guess I feel rather strongly about this, but forget Cham for ice climbing if the Briancon region is an option - doesn't even compare. Plus Cham can be pretty annoying in the winter...

 

You'll find some useful information and links here

www.ice-fall.com

 

Have fun!