macmurtb Posted November 15, 2005 Posted November 15, 2005 Anyone have any info on the conditions on Hood? How's is the burgshrund? Looking to climb this weekend, and wanted to see if anyone has been up there recently and could give us some info on the routes... Quote
John Frieh Posted November 15, 2005 Posted November 15, 2005 Will have info on Thursday for you Quote
Alex Posted November 15, 2005 Posted November 15, 2005 This time of year those routes are *always* in shape. Quote
John Frieh Posted November 17, 2005 Posted November 17, 2005 Ran up today... it felt like June (so much that PMR was even out looking for a lost climber ) except for the fact that the pearl gates are currently sporting a 2-3 foot crown... avy is sketchy from hogs back up through the gates. If you do a north side route you should be okay though rapping off a picket might be in order. Not sure if I would recommend topping out from the south side considering snow pack conditions... but if you are willing to risk your life for an ascent of the south side of hood your call  Other hood notes: I rock looks like it did 3 weeks ago... little to no snow (though the north side looked blasted... hard to tell).  Premium KORN to be had today... it was 60 degrees at tline at 1 pm Quote
John Frieh Posted November 17, 2005 Posted November 17, 2005 Just to give you an idea of what the inversion is doing to Hood at 1 pm today it was 60 degrees at timberline and 53 at g.camp. Might want to rethink those north face plans Quote
iain Posted November 17, 2005 Posted November 17, 2005 Ran up today... Â Premium KORN to be had today... Â It must have been an awesome hike down that sweet corn. Â Jus' kidding, good to see folks out there today. Quote
John Frieh Posted November 17, 2005 Posted November 17, 2005 Ran up today...  Premium KORN to be had today...  It must have been an awesome hike down that sweet corn.  Jus' kidding, good to see folks out there today.  I rather hike corn than ski ice  I kept asking everyone "where is iain?" yet I still managed to miss you good work up there btw... hope it isn't a preview for this weekend on the north face Quote
cicleclimb Posted November 17, 2005 Posted November 17, 2005 So going down the south side is safe but going up is not? That doesn't really make sense. Or are you just saying it would be a bitch to climb over a 3 foot avy crown and dangerous to go around to, for example, the west crater considering avy conditions. Since the pearly gates have, presumably (since there is a crown), already slid it should be relatively safe there, no? Of course this does not consider the other terrain. Am I making sense? Okay, final clarification - is it a crown or just a fracture? Quote
John Frieh Posted November 17, 2005 Posted November 17, 2005 Partial slide yesterday but it sounds like it is safe now/slid completely as Ivan and friends climbed it. See his TR. Â It makes sense because the south side is a lower angle up to the hogsback and then the hogs back is at a steeper angle allowing it (and the old chute) to slide. Â Partial crown below pearly gates and old chute when I went. Ask Ivan what he found. Quote
111 Posted November 19, 2005 Posted November 19, 2005 I turned around at the hogsback but it sounds like the Bergschrund filled in with those avalanches off the pearly gates. Saw headlamps halfway up the Pearly Gates at 4:00am so people were able to get that far. Quote
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