jvooz Posted October 15, 2005 Posted October 15, 2005 7/8 I made the approach via the Hoh river trail. The first day we made it to the olympus guard station (9.1 miles) where we spent the night, the weather had been spotty that day and rained most that night. The next day we made it to glacier meadows which we had all to ourselves, the weather had been foggy and drizzled just about all day. On the approach we were able to just see the bottom of the magnificent white glacier and surrounding valley but had not yet gotten to see the upper mountain. After a pleasant night at Glacier meadows ( where I should mention there was no snow as there was also none in the avalanche shoots via the approach) we ventured up the lateral moraine where we were greated by a down pour and very strong gusts, deciding that the weather was only going to deteriorate further up we decided to head back We made hike all the way out to the visitors center monday evening (18.1 miles) I should also note that we had also come across two other climbers who had turned around at the snow dome due to similar circumstances. Quote
Kraken Posted October 15, 2005 Posted October 15, 2005 hopefully this next summer will be better for Olympus. seems like it was a shitty year for it. Quote
Fairweather Posted October 17, 2005 Posted October 17, 2005 H-e-l-l-o-o-w-w-o-o. How much longer are you going to help perpetuate this myth before you actually do a little research? You don't know what you are talking about. I'll say this one more time: Conditions on Olympus were great this summer!! Comprende' senor Clint?? Geeeez. Quote
Kraken Posted October 17, 2005 Posted October 17, 2005 well fairweather, my dear friend, you are probably the ONLY one i've heard say that it was a good year on Olympus. Everyone else has been complaining about blue ice and receeding snow/ice from the block. Â Glad to hear it was such a stellar year though. Quote
Fairweather Posted October 18, 2005 Posted October 18, 2005 Here's another report that you must have missed. But then, it's easier to perpetuate a myth than to do a little research before spouting off....much less actually climb something. Â http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/488262/an/0/page/0#488262 Quote
Kraken Posted October 18, 2005 Posted October 18, 2005 It's easy to play the bully, but my sources were the Olympic National Park, other friends of mine, and most notably this website. Here is a link to a thread with multiple people (including some who have climbed it) saying it was less than stellar.  http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/460522/an/0/page/0#460522  Suz says: A little snow above camp to the moraine, but not a whole lot left. Most notably, there was already a but of blue glacier ice and crevasses melted out on the flat portion of the Blue Glacier! ... It's going to be a very short season up there! The WIC mentioned the possibility that the route will be closed (officially or by crevasses?) sometime in July.  John says: Has anybody been up there more recently? I have heard some horror stories about the route being out of shape, and the summit block having a moat that has melted out 40 feet from the summit block and about 30 deep, requiring a Tyrolean Traverse.  - John  cj001f says: Last year you had to "descend" into the bergshrund at crystal pass. It involved maybe 10' of ice downclimbing. Sounds like there's been a lot of melt if the reports are accurate. Would be interested in seeing a first hand accoutn.  Way to rule with an iron fist, Fairweather... I'll just sit around (not climbing, obviously) here and hopefully not say something stupid so you won't have to correct me. Quote
cj001f Posted October 18, 2005 Posted October 18, 2005 well fairweather, my dear friend, you are probably the ONLY one i've heard say that it was a good year on Olympus. Everyone else has been complaining about blue ice and receeding snow/ice from the block I think he and his son are among the few who actually bothered to go and climb it and not believe second hand reports. Quote
Fairweather Posted October 18, 2005 Posted October 18, 2005 Actually, Clint, my point is that you are a little impetuous moron and the only one I know who regularly chestbeats before an actual climb....climbs that seem rarely to materialize. I rarely spray like this outside of the appropriate forum, but your little altercation with Sobo the other day finally convinced me that you are but a gnat only half a step up the food chain from DH. Quote
Kraken Posted October 18, 2005 Posted October 18, 2005 Guess that means I won't be considered for a coveted mod position, eh? Â Maybe people will take me more seriously when I have a few thousand posts. Quote
Kraken Posted October 18, 2005 Posted October 18, 2005 Look FW, either way I wasn't looking to start a fight with you or anyone else. I think that if you look back on my post responding to jvooz, then look at the way you responded to me, you might see how it came across. I wasn't an asshole off the bat, I didn't make any negative remarks. Â Why respond to me like that. I had planned on climbing Olympus this summer, checked a few (seemingly) reliable resources, and from ALL of them, found it to be less than perfect. Â Perhaps your proved them wrong. I wish now I would have ventured there regardless, but I decided to put my time into other adventures. Â I think that some of your comments are unwarranted, but whatever. You slammed me, hats off to you. I think you'd be hardpressed to find one word here or anywhere else on this board where I have been disrespectful to you. Quote
Rat_In_Training Posted October 18, 2005 Posted October 18, 2005 *Breaks into song*  CAN YOU FEEL THE LOVE TONIGHT...........   I'll set the record straight in July when I make the climb with Summit for Someone  My Pledge Page Quote
Alpinfox Posted October 18, 2005 Posted October 18, 2005 It's easy to play the bully, but my sources were the Olympic National Park, other friends of mine, and most notably this website. Â Ah.... Using CC.com as an authoritative information resource. Smart. Probably better than relying on the NPS though. Â Here is a link to a thread with multiple people (including some who have climbed it) saying it was less than stellar. Â http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/460522/an/0/page/0#460522 Â Suz says: A little snow above camp to the moraine, but not a whole lot left. Most notably, there was already a but of blue glacier ice and crevasses melted out on the flat portion of the Blue Glacier! The flat part of the blue glacier is ALWAYS dry in the summer, that's why it's called the BLUE glacier and not the WHITE glacier. ... It's going to be a very short season up there! The WIC mentioned the possibility that the route will be closed (officially or by crevasses?) sometime in July. "officially closed"? WTF? What is the WIC anyway? Quote
philfort Posted October 18, 2005 Posted October 18, 2005 Haha, I laughed when I saw that post that Olympus was going to be impossible to climb this summer  Paul didn't seem have too much trouble: http://students.washington.edu/pbelitz/2005/olympus/ Quote
Kraken Posted October 18, 2005 Posted October 18, 2005 Do many people approach Olympus from the South? Say from Big Flat or Pelton Creek? Quote
John Frieh Posted October 18, 2005 Posted October 18, 2005 Actually, Clint, my point is that you are a little impetuous moron and the only one I know who regularly chestbeats before an actual climb....climbs that seem rarely to materialize. I rarely spray like this outside of the appropriate forum, but your little altercation with Sobo the other day finally convinced me that you are but a gnat only half a step up the food chain from DH. Â Finally! Someone to share the abuse with Quote
Kraken Posted October 18, 2005 Posted October 18, 2005 someone did compare me to you in another thread, NOLSe. I'll behave from now on:) Quote
Fairweather Posted October 18, 2005 Posted October 18, 2005 The reasons I find you so annoying have little to do with this thread and more to do with your completely untempered youthful exuberance...and a myraid of other comments, quips, and chiming in you have done. Lets have a look: Â Â http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/466292/an/0/page/0#466292 old news, but still tragic none the less. I was on the Ledges in March and was right at the spot he fell at the top of the Chute. Â Â http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/453082/an/0/page/0#453082 Mount Yukla, 7500+ feet. One of the hardest mountains in the Chugach. Climbing this face this weekend.SICK! Anyone here ever done it? Should be balls to the wall! So how did your trip go, Clint?? Â Â http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/475072/an/0/page/1#475072 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/475099/an/0/page/2#475099 ...all the while offering your vast expertise on the mountain to others, you can't even identify simple physical features on Rainier. Â Â http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/461736/an/0/page/0#461736 If there is death afoot in the mountains, you seem to be the first on the scene! Â Â http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/446381/an/0/page/4#446381 Ahh yes, the famous Gibraltar Ledge winter ascent. This is where I made the mistake of simply noting on the TR that your ascent was technically a spring climb....WOW, did I get a flurry of angry PM's from the groupies in your college climbing club!! Â Â http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/s...true#Post508221 Â Â Take some advice, junior: Â *Don't offer advice to others that you are not qualified to give re: topography, technical, condition reports, etc. Â *Avoid injecting yourself into fatality reports by saying things like "Oh! I was there once! Oh, Oh!!" Â *Chestbeat (if you must) AFTER the climb. Not before. And if you insist on tantalizing the masses with a preview of your next grand conquest, at least follow up later with "well...uh...we never really left the trailhead." ...and maybe some pictures of your car or something. Â Â BTW: Have you ever even set foot on the Olympic Peninsula? Quote
knelson Posted October 19, 2005 Posted October 19, 2005 Well... as long as we're playing "Clintoris - It's YOOOOUUUUR Life", here's my fav: Â "What Qualifies as a Summit" http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB23&Number=471300 Â Can't believe you guys haven't mentioned this one yet. Poseurs. Quote
Alpinfox Posted October 20, 2005 Posted October 20, 2005 Â At the tender age of 14, our young Clintoris is also an expert on extreme mountaineering footwear Quote
John Frieh Posted October 20, 2005 Posted October 20, 2005 At the tender age of 14, our young Clintoris is also an expert on extreme mountaineering footwear  STFU. Kid works at a shop that actually can carry and sale those boots. All he is doing to relaying what he is heard. Nothing wrong with that... if anything some would say friendly. Quote
Arc Posted December 8, 2005 Posted December 8, 2005 Damn. I pray to never get on anyones bad side here. lol Quote
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