Brian_Moran Posted July 15, 2002 Share Posted July 15, 2002 I'm planning a (guided) trip to climb the North Face of Buckner followed-up by an ascent of the Direct E. Ridge of Forbidden (not until end of August). I've never been this area and would appreciate a little info. My idea is to climb Sahale Peak then camp near Boston-Sahale Col. The next morning, we'd climb Buckner from there. What's the best way to get back to camp on the descent? I want to be set up for Forbidden's E. Ridge the following morning. Could we start down the SW route, then veer northwest to a spot on Ripsaw and rap down to the Boston Glacier? I'm climbing with a guide but wouldn't mind some independent beta. Also let me know if this is a hairbrained way to do this, but only if you have a better suggestion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoker Posted July 15, 2002 Share Posted July 15, 2002 Brian, that’s fairly ambitious goals, as your chosen summits are a bit far apart (Forbidden and Buckner). The one time I've been through the Boston Sahalie col, I saw no suitable biv sites but I was not looking to biv there. Most folks do not attempt the East Ridge of Forbidden from here or from the Boston glacier side. You can gain the east ridge of Forbidden from the Boston glacier, but why? The only real reason to do this is if you have no permit for Boston basin high camp. BUT, it is the standard approach for the NORTH ridge of Forbidden. You will need time to do both these routes in the same trip, as they are some distance apart. Your best scenario is to high camp high on the Sahalie arm. Up and over Sahalie to Boston glacier, over to the N face route of Buckner up and over Buckner, back to Sahalie arm via Horseshoe Basin, then back over Sahalie to the col and down the Quien Sabe Glacier to the Boston Basin high camp below the standard West ridge approach to Forbidden. From there it is straightforward to the East Ridge of Forbidden and you can return to your biv the same day. Good luck I'm sure your guide will set you straight. Smoker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 15, 2002 Share Posted July 15, 2002 I think it would also be reasonable to climb the E Ridge of Forbidden descend to the Boston Glacier to camp. Then climb the NF Buckner up over and out home. Camping on the Boston Sahale Col is a great idea. I think that is the photo taken on the REd Beckey book cover there! The views dont get any better either. However camping on the Boston Glacier would be a wild majestic setting if you ask me. Just hope the NF shrunds dont get too big or impassable by late August. Might need a GPS around those if they do haha. Seriously though they are getting larger. I dont know anything about getting over or around Ripsaw Ridge. Have a good time on your trip. [ 07-15-2002, 07:13 AM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoker Posted July 15, 2002 Share Posted July 15, 2002 Yeah, I agree with you Caveman. That would be the way to go. much better use of time and distance. S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_Parker Posted July 15, 2002 Share Posted July 15, 2002 If you bivy at the B-S col, it will be a big day to get back because it will end with you climbing up out of Horseshoe basin then up over Sahale to get back to camp. Maybe you can somehow descend the north face again, but not many people do it...although I suppose if the snow got soft enough but not dangerous it would be ok. That would make life a whole lot easier for return to a base on B-S col. If you did the Forbidden climb first, then did a carry over when you do Buckner, that might work too. Hope you have 4-5 days! Just out of curiosity, who's your guide? [ 07-15-2002, 10:28 AM: Message edited by: David Parker ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertm Posted July 15, 2002 Share Posted July 15, 2002 Here is how you do it. Park at cascade pass... hike up and climb Sahale drop your shit at the col and climb Boston. Next day go and climb Buckner and return to Col... move camp down and below Forbidden... climb Sharkfin Tower on the way by. Next day climb East Ridge of Forbidden... down climb West ridge and carry on to Torment via traverse on ridge... return across Taboo and to camp below Forbidden. next day hike out. Take light packs and just do it. You would be amazed at what you can do when you go light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savaiusini Posted July 16, 2002 Share Posted July 16, 2002 yes, it was very easy compared to what that route can be... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 16, 2002 Share Posted July 16, 2002 Sharkfin has Excellent rock! [ 07-16-2002, 04:04 PM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian_Moran Posted July 17, 2002 Author Share Posted July 17, 2002 Thanks for all the good info. I am planning 4-5 days. Fast and light are ideal, but for a 32-year-young Midwesterner, who gets to the real mountains once a year, the fast part becomes difficult. Robert's itinerary would be ideal, but maybe a little too ambitious. Although, Sharkfin Tower has always been an option, time permitting. Finishing via a traverse of Forbiddens' East and West ridges to Torment would be a hell of a capstone... Forbidden, then Buckner is a great suggestion as well. Downclimbing the North Face of Buckner was never an option... Thanks again!!! B. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 17, 2002 Share Posted July 17, 2002 Climb Forbidden* or have fun otherwise* Duh * Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savaiusini Posted July 17, 2002 Share Posted July 17, 2002 I think I have to agree with Smoker's and Cavey's scenarios here. Also, I wouldn't really recommend downclimbing the NF of Buckner. Me and a buddy just did it on Saturday and it was REALLY soft (bad crampon balling). We bivyed on the summit after climbing about 12 hrs from the car, topping out around 9:30. Here's some pics: Buckner Trip Photos Another option: I suppose you could do like we did and biv on the top. Then the next day go out Horseshoe Basin to Sahale Arm. Drop a camp there or on the Queen Sloppy and do Forbidden. Best of luck! [ 07-16-2002, 12:16 PM: Message edited by: savaiusini ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_Parker Posted July 17, 2002 Share Posted July 17, 2002 It's just amazing how much more snow is in the Cascades this year as compared to 2001! When I did this last year at about same time, it was all boulders/scree crossing horseshoe basin and exposed wet slabs to get back up to Sahale Arm! You guys had it easy!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 17, 2002 Share Posted July 17, 2002 Everyone who sends an alpine route after me had it easier than I did Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hollyclimber Posted July 17, 2002 Share Posted July 17, 2002 I noted above a suggestion to climb Boston. I haven't climbed it, but it doesn't look like great rock! It wasn't in your original agenda anyway, but I am not sure it is a very highly recommended peak...actually I am pretty sure that it is not highly recommended. Sharkfin might be a cool add to your list though. Have fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rod_Xuereb Posted July 18, 2002 Share Posted July 18, 2002 We climbed the N. Face of Buckner by camping on Sahale. Over the Sahale/Boston Col to the Boston GL. Up the N. Face down to horseshoe basin and up to Sahale again. A very, very long day. If you find an old Leica camera there I lost it in 1993. Rod P.S. Boston is a piece of crap and seldom climbed. I climbed it in the late 80's and there were only a few names between us and John Roskelley in the late 60's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.