Three O'Clock route info request

[tjmcd]

Does anyone know the name of a two pitch route SW of the Great Arch area. The second pitch was the pitch-o-the-day. I tried to make it my third lead of my life, but got stuck and chickened out at a tough spot after the third bolt. The bolts were older and the hangers were sheet metal. The move was a big step up to the right onto a small edge with very little hands. The route then went up 10ft a rib and then left up a short wall with a gully on the left. This a sketchy description, but I'd really like some information this one. I lowered off. Otto (my climbing mentor extraordinare) finished the lead, but had to talk to himself to get through it so I know I made the right choice. I followed without any falls, but I had to get creative. The route didn't look like it got a lot of traffic. The rappel sling was old and ratty with an old piece of nylon rope hanging off one of the anchor bolths. We added a runner and biner to back the weaker side.

 

Sunday was a big day for me. I went with Otto to Three O'clock rock. I am a newbie climber and this was my first lead. Otto has been a great mentor/teacher. He suggested "Under the Bored Walk" as a good first lead and it was. No pro placements, just clipping bones on hangers (I like learning one thing at a time). It was a wonderful route with lots of big chickenheads and closely spaced bolts.

 

Otto brought a total newbie to the area. My hat's off to him. He climbed three pitches, including Cornucopia Flake where he got off route and ended up climbing just right of the first 5.9 pitch of the Kone!

 

My second lead was another mystery route in the same area and similar to Under the Bored Walk. It was 5.6/7-ish to me.

Edited September 27, 2005 by tjmcd

[MCash]

Nice job on your first leads, sorry I don't know the answer to your question.

 

How the heck do you get off route on the Cornicopia Flake??? There is a big flake, and you lieback up it. That IS right of the first pitch of The Kone.

[shapp]

This post is more confusing than the 1980's Brooks and Whitelaw Darrington guide book!

[tjmcd]

Either he wasn't comfortable with the whole lieback idea or he followed me. I followed second and did it on pure friction since I had a toprope. He was a bit alarmed at the top, so we didn't want to quiz him. I hope I didn't lead him into thinking the friction was easier than the lieback...

[shapp]

Maybe they were not at Darrington, but at static point on Fud Hat! I can't see how anyone could be off route or alarmed on Cornicopia flake with pro any pretty much any place you want it and rated at about 5.5 or 5.6. Unless you were leading with a gold line, some of those old Robins boots with the really slippery vibram sole, and a rack of hexes.

[tjmcd]

It was Cornucopia alright. I've been to Static Point. You can get off route at Cornucopia if you have never, ever been rock climbing before. The start of the route is friction because the flake starts out full of plants. There's a ledge about 10ft up and you have to traverse over to it. He never moved over.

[MCash]

How the heck did you clean his gear if you seconded up the slab left of the flake????? Did he solo it?

[mattp]

In my book, the start of Cornucopia route is on the plants, because the face offers little friction.

 

How far left of Tidbits was your mystery route? Was it the next route left - immediately to the right of a newer one? I can't quite picture it from your description. Was it headed for a steep rib with a retreat sling hanging on an old bolt maybe 40 feet up? You could have been on Magic Bus.

 

I think ChucK's picture is of that route:

[tjmcd]

Re: Cornucopia. There were three of us. Otto lead, I seconded and cleaned gear which then freed our brave, but inexperienced friend to wander.

 

Re: Mystery routes: We did one route with a retreat sling on it in that area. It sure sounds like your description of Magic Bus. The 2 pitch route I described was even further to the left (SW). The second pitch was harder than the 5.5 - 5.7 stuff we'd been doing. The rappel sling on the second pitch was old and a regular nylon rope was attached to one of the anchor bolts. We had to back up the weaker side with a runner and biner.

Edited September 27, 2005 by tjmcd

[mattp]

You might have been on Luke. I've never done that one, but I've heard folks say it was pretty good and I think I remember there was a travese in there somewhere. Two pitches; 'don't remember the rating - 5.10a?

[shapp]

I concur with matt, I believe you were on Luke, the last 10 or 12 foot to the sencond pitch anchors is indeed a little but puckery with very poor hands. 5.10a

[mattp]

I'm wondering if anybody around here has done Shot in the Dark. I believe that Duane Constantino said it was one of his best efforts and I'm thinking it might be cool to upgrade the hardware. I wouldn't want to try it in its current condition!

[shapp]

I don't want anything to do with what has been refered to as the "flying camel move" on pitch three of Shot in the Dark.

[DavidW]

This all sounds confusing to me too and I am pretty familiar with the old Brooks/Whitelaw guide and Darrington in general. I doubt that the route being described is Luke because both pitches of that route end at modern belay stations. Magic Bus has belay anchors that use three 1/4" bolts and the first pitch is just barely 5.8 near the top. In any case sounds like you had some adventure out there.... I might point out that there is a new guide available for Darrington. It has fairly comprehensive topo's and is available on CDrom from Pro Mountain Sports, Feathered Friends and Marmot Mtn.Works in Bellevue. You can also order one directly from the author... me.

[tjmcd]

Thanks for the info. I'd be jazzed to have climbed a 5.10a slab sans falls at this point in my climbing career. Another detail that belated came back to me is that the first pitch had a brush ledge about 15ft up.

 

I don't think our other mystery pitch was Magic Bus, because Otto remembered it was immediately left of Under the Bored Walk. That pitch had a 5.9 rating, but no name on the topo.

[Off_White]

I am pretty familiar with the old Brooks/Whitelaw guide

 

[olyclimber]

You could almost say he wrote the book...

[tjmcd]

Why look at the book when one can ponder the mysteries ... ;-)