[TR] Castle Crags- Hubris n' Stuff 9/27/2005

[layton]

Climb: Castle Crags-Hubris n' Stuff

 

Date of Climb: 9/27/2005

 

Trip Report:

Marcus and I closed the summer by taking it full circle and going back to the Crags.

We tried to do Solar Wind, and i got lost after pulling the crux roof so marcus took off and somehow did the crux pitch for the Dike route to the right, then i got the crux pitch of cosmic voyage to the top. so basically we managed to combine all 3 routes on the south face. i'm going to bring a metal detector for bolt locating next time.

we then got lost on Dunsmuir Ave (the climb) in root creek. good stuff.

i found my dream woman at the parking lot, or at least her car.

 

so i guess manzanita bushes must pollenate in the sping and fall b/c this trip i got another face shot of yellow pollen and tried to claw my eyes out again.

 

 

Gear Notes:

long pants

manzanita pollen anitdote kit

 

wish we had:

bolt kit

pins and hammer

 

 

Approach Notes:

the castle dome trail just gets better each time you hike it. yes!

[jordop]

Yeah, whatever, you have NO idea what hubris is casue you haven't BEEN there

[sweatinoutliquor]

Nice job guys, thanks for the pics... I'm thinking of heading that way for this weekend. Looks licheny!

[layton]

I know what hubris is! I invented that term. I know the most about the word hubris than anyone else in the world.

 

And nope, not licheny (at least compared to anything in WA). the rock is really good, just sparse on the cracks.

[sweatinoutliquor]

What are the dark spots on the rock in your second picture? Is that the rock? Cool if it is! Are they dark crystals? (like the movie dark crystal?) Wait, don't tell me, I'll figure it out later.

[layton]

yeah, but the dark spots don't take up every bit of white, that's pretty good.

[Dru]

What are the dark spots on the rock in your second picture? Is that the rock? Cool if it is! Are they dark crystals? (like the movie dark crystal?) Wait, don't tell me, I'll figure it out later.

 

Is that the movie that was Lord of the Rings with muppets!?

[EWolfe]

Cool!

 

Now get back to work, Slacker.

[sweatinoutliquor]

Went down to Castle Crag this weekend and met up with a buddy from Davis for a little playing around. Folks, don't ever go here, it sucks. No good climbing whatsoever... Seriously, what an awesome place! Long approach to the goods, but they are there for sure. Interesting granite, not very typical, kinda crumbly in some places. We climbed the cosmic wall cause of some advice, had a great time. Real easy climbing with a kick ass view. I watched tanker planes dropping loads of fire retardant on a forest fire 15 miles away, but didn't get any action shots cause I forgot my camera on the route. Anyway, stay off it, cause it's no fun anyway Then messed around with a little sport stuff and called it a trip. Great time was had by all, and only ran into one other group of climbers the whole time. Anybody done the three star 10d route on the SE face of castle? Looked pretty crazy. Anyway, here are a few pics for ya...

 

[sweatinoutliquor]

PS. It wasn't licheny (at least the routes we did) And no, they weren't dark cryatals

[Christo]

I climbed the S.E.face of castle dome III 5.10d with my buddy in 1997. We were told it was the best rte. in the park at the time. After doing it we totally agreed. The first 2 ps (165ft each) are way runout.After that the climbing gets harder but with more gear.Awesome exposure,it follows the dike the whole way. I'd do it again & highly

recommend it for the serious adventure climber. The faint

of heart need not apply,it IS a Serious rte.

[layton]

any beta for Plumbline on Battle Mtn? i'm headed for it this weekend.

[sweatinoutliquor]

Nice Christo... I agree, that route looks like it's sustained and difficult, and the position is so cool! Way to get up there and climb it, and thanks for your first post being a response to my question! I wish that place was closer! So cool!

[EWolfe]

The closest I have ever gotten to danger at Castle Crags is almost driving off the highway rubber-necking every time I drive by.

[AFIVE]

Yes the dike route on the east face is superb!! There is another route "Castle blaster" 5.9 just to it's left which is also good. The first bit of the dike route is a bit run, but gets a bit less heady the higher you get.

[AFIVE]

Funny you want a metal detector.....The first time I did the Cosmic Wall in 1989 it had only one bolt on the entire route and it wasn't even nessasary as you can get three or four pieces of gear in at the top of the original third pitch (the only belay not on a huge ledge) With a 60M or 70M rope you can do the thing in three to four pitches instead of the original 6 pitches. Mike, Plumbline is one of my favorite routes in the park. I have the old John Bald guide that has all the info east of Mt. Hubris. The rock gets a little less sound farther east in the crags, but is way more adventuous. Get in touch with me and I'll get you the beta from the old guide. You are the only other person that I know of that has explored Root Creek. Sick potential down there huh?

[layton]

Hey, I meant a metal dectector for Dunsmuir Ave, not cosmic wall!! And I went back with Marcus for plumbline soon afterwards..there's a TR with photos somewhere. We (ab)used Lane's old guide. Friggin awesome climb. Yeah, i saw a few neat objectives in Root creek.

[AFIVE]

Did you like Plumbline or the dike route better?

[layton]

Haven't done the dike route (E.face of castle) yet. We mysteriously got rained off it on a 0% chance of rain day??? go figure.

 

i bet

dike hike is a fun climb, but shit it's far for the grade and # of pitches.

 

plumbline tr

Edited October 27, 2005 by michael_layton

[wimsey]

The Dike Route on Castle Dome is one of the best grade III's I've done. Fun sustained 5.8-5.9 for nearly 1000 ft. The few 5.10 moves are well protected.

[layton]

The Dike Route on Castle Dome is one of the best grade III's I've done. Fun sustained 5.8-5.9 for nearly 1000 ft. The few 5.10 moves are well protected.

 

So i've heard. can't wait to get on it!