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Posted

quote:

Originally posted by iain:

Dru: Just like George Dubya, I don't like your fuzzy math.

 

Greg: The germans have over 100 different words for horsecock, just like the eskimos do with snow. They practically invented it.

I stand corrected, Iaiaiaiaiain, thank you. However, I stand by my initial statement: Messner doesn't mention a horsecock-toting yeti in the book.

 

Greg [big Drink]

Posted

quote:

Originally posted by Dru:

Greg W; in tibet, it would be yakcock.

So Reinhold's passage would sound like this: "Ve valked up-slope tovards der beast. He acted wery agitated at our closeness and made as if to charge me. At this point, I reached into my rucksack und remofed ein yakencocken dat vas giffen to me by der local tibetans. Der yeti has wery gooten sense of smell und approached me as I offered der yakencocken to it. As he snacked on der yakencocken, he allowed by to pet his head. I attempted to take his picture, but he ran off once the yakencocken was gone...der quest continues"

 

[big Grin]

 

Bitchin'...page top.

 

[ 07-08-2002, 12:15 PM: Message edited by: Greg W ]

Posted

I should add there was a LOT of snow which I'm sure made all this VERY different, especially on the upper slabs, from when most people visit Goode. The Beckey approach map may be fine when the waterfalls slow way down, but they were raging when we were there! We were further up from the suggested crossing because that's where the snow bridge was. Crossing N. Fork Bridge creek any sooner was not an option.

Posted

For all of you with excess cash lying around, consider the floatplane option to Stehekin. My wife and I did the NE Buttress years ago when we had real jobs and had more money than time (that's changed!), and we opted for the plane. Day 1 we left Chelan at 6:30 AM which allowed us to grab the first shuttle leaving Stehekin and gave us plenty of time to reach the bivy sites. Day 2 did the climb and came as far down the SW side into Park Creek Valley as we could by dark (good sites and water just above timberline). Day 3 was up early to continue down to the road where we caught the day's first shuttle returning back to Stehekin, where we grabbed a boat within about 10 minutes. I think a one-way flight is now up to $80 per person (it was a bit cheaper back then), but it's one more option to think about if your schedule is tight and you want to cut down your trail mileage. And the flight in was a very cool way to start the day.

 

One more thing I remember about this climb was that the summit itself had an awesome bivy site. A bit hard to work a summit bivy into your plans maybe, but if you could (or if you were forced to), you'd have a very comfortable site with unbeatable views.

Posted

Colin,

 

The prices I quoted are as such:

Parking prices at Fields Point are by the car. So the more people in the car, the more the required money is divided. It cost $6 per day or $30 per week. However, the guy taking the money let us pay for four days even though we told him we might come out on the fifth day. I don't think they're that strict about it.

 

The other prices quoted are per person:

$25 to ride the slower Lady of the Lake II round trip. I think, but could be wrong, that the high-speed catamaran is $44 roundtrip (and it makes two runs a day).

$6 per shuttle bus ride per way per person. Since there are two zones and two directions of travel (unless you go out a different way), this adds up to $24. The first shuttle bus is largely the tourist bus and is a converted school bus (except it's dark blue). The second shuttle bus is a NPS van. The two shuttle buses coordinate a rendezvous at High Bridge Camp on the Stehekin River Road.

 

Donn: That bivy at the summit of Goode is still there. A little tight perhaps for a tent but it would fit two bivy sacks side-by-side. There are also plenty of ledges below the summit in the vicinity of Black Tooth Notch that would suffice for bivying.

 

As for the float plane information, if the parking for it be free and the prices for the plane are about the same, then that option will cost about $80 - $24 - $25 = $31 more per person. Not that much more, really.

 

[ 07-13-2002, 10:15 AM: Message edited by: klenke ]

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I have to spray here for Colins and Barts sake.

After leaving the trailhead at the stop at the end of the Stehekin road,The 2 of them did Goode in a day !!

[Eek!][Eek!][Eek!][Eek!][Eek!]

 

Has anyone heard of that happenning before? [Cool]

Posted

quote:

Originally posted by wayne1112:

I have to spray here for Colins and Barts sake.

After leaving the trailhead at the stop at the end of the Stehekin road,The 2 of them did Goode in a day !!

[Eek!][Eek!][Eek!][Eek!][Eek!]

 

Has anyone heard of that happenning before?
[Cool]

Right, I should have mentioned that in more detail. Their register entry said "7 hours shuttle to summit". It took us 9.5 hours from bivy at 5100 ft. to summit, so we were really impressed.

Posted

As of Sunday 7/28,

 

1) the Goode Glacier is still easy to get across and get onto the rock without ice climbing. We went far to the left below ice cliffs, then traversed snow back to the NE Buttress toe.

2) The descent via Goode/Storm King col is in fine shape. There is a bergschrund, and pretty huge ice cliffs on this section of the glacier. But good routefinding finds snow all the way, just 3(?) snowbridge crossings.

3) Get back to your camp before dark! We reached the slabs at 5600 ft on a cloudy evening, and finally ended up sitting on a ledge until light (after scrambling around until 2 am looking for camp [Roll Eyes] )

4) The snowbridge across N Fork Bridge Creek is still okay, but becoming dangerously thin. I wouldn't even count on that for next weekend. We crossed on a log on the way in, following Beckey's directions without trouble. We used the snowbridge on the way out, but crawled across and dragged our packs after.

 

We saw David Parker's summit register entry, also Colin's from 7/15. David, thanks for the inspiration to get in there! I wish we'd had the views you did...mostly clouded in.

 

--Michael

Posted

As mentioned by Wayne, Bart and I climbed Goode in a day. Approached from Stehekin, it is actually not very long (7.5 miles from shuttle to creek crossing). Also, by not taking bivy gear we were able to climb with very lightweight packs. We took a single 7.5 mm twin rope, planning to double it over on the climb, but make 30 m rappels possible on the descent. Also, by carrying over the route, one can descend to Park Creek and hike out that way (5 miles from hitting the trail to the shuttle), rather than go back over the Goode-Stormking col.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Bogus post to get this thread back to the top of page one for an interested patron (a new Lurker):

 

I climbed NE BUTT of GOODE July 6 of this year. The conditions of the climb now should be quite good. No snow should remain on the rock. However, the glacier below the buttress will be more crevassed. At this time of year, the best approach to the butt is probably from the extreme left side of the glacier. This puts you out of harms way of the falling seracs, which do fall regularly in the middle--especially with hot weather. There's currently a big ice debris field below the serac area.

 

You probably found info in this thread concerning a snow bridge crossing of Bridge Creek below the mountain. It is doubtful it is still there. Not to worry, there are at least two logs that can be used to cross the creek in the trees before this point. Essentially, when the North Fork Bridge Creek Trail first encounters a new avalanche debris area, cut left toward the creek and search for a log to cross. We found one in an area where the creek ran through gravel bars.

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