New line on Liberty Bell East Face?

[John Frieh]

Sorry if I am outing someone's project here but what is the story with the sport route that continues straight up off the first anchor for thin red line? Looks like it joins up with Liberty Crack above the 3rd pitch... anybody know anything? Rating?

 

Looks fun!

[EWolfe]

Just to the right of Liberty Crack?

I was soloing Liberty Crack a few years back when that was being put up. It's like a .10+, but I remember the First Ascentionist remarking that there was a "perfect #3 Camalot placement, and I just couldn't put a bolt there."

 

I think that was the first pitch. Looked really fun, I agree.

[Matt_Anderson]

As I recall, its called freedom or death. I think it starts a bit to the left of Thin Red Line. I climbed the first pitch or two and got snowed off a few years ago. It's three or four pitches, something like a pitch of hard .10, a pitch or two of hard .11/easy .12, and then a travers pitch of low .11 that links up w/ LC above the lip.

{The parts I was on were quite nice. You need some gear, but it is primarily bolts.

[John Frieh]

Just to the right of Liberty Crack?

 

Yes but even closer to TRL. It appeared to share the first pitch and then go straight up off the anchor... about 15' climber's left of the A3 crack.

 

Does anybody have a topo or have a general verbal description?

[John Frieh]

Thanks Matt! What I was looking for.

 

So it joins LC at the top of pitch 2 (above the lip)?

[specialed]

I think that's the route put up by John and Mike Shaeffer. If so, its not all that new.

[bwrts]

ask larry the llama or erik's boss: wallstein.

[bobbyperu]

sent by, not put up by, the sha-furs...i belive its a butler route...a local guide/ editor in the valley.

[telemarker]

I saw these bolts just above 2nd belay, kinda where one climbs left of the crumbly flake.

[PSB]

The route, Freedom or Death, was established around 8 years ago or so by Eli Helmuth. The first pitch is 10+ w/gear and bolts. The second is 5.11, all bolts. The third is 5.12, all bolts with a gear placement or two. The fourth pitch traverses under a big roof into the 3rd pitch (5.11+) of Liberty Crack. Mike and John were the first to send all four pitches.

Helmuth also established a 5.10+ start to the Thin Red Line, bolts and gear, that starts and ends just right of the first pitch of FOD.

 

Paul Butler

Mazama

[bobbyperu]

my bad paul...for some reason i thought i'd heard you had something to do with this cool looking route... i've heard its super cool...know of many ascents..?

[larrythellama]