Chipping to make a Climb HARDER

[Alpinfox]

How was scarface altered after Franklin climbed it?

 

Several of the pockets have gotten deeper/larger from "overuse"...nothing deliberate...

 

Rudy, I'd like to see/hear your evidence for your "nothing deliberate" claim cause it sure sounds like bullshit to me. A pocket on a 5.14 route getting 50% bigger due to "overuse"?

 

B.S.

[RuMR]

whatever pax...go climb the trade routes there...they are constantly changing...an example is churning...lower on the route, a nice edge pulled off revealing an even bigger two finger gas pocket behind it...higher on the route, some footholds fell off making it harder, then the gas pocket lip broke making it harder...THEN A FUCK FACE NAMED CORY DID DELIBERATELY CHIP A HOLD ON IT, making it easier...but, you see routes do change there from traffic...while scarface doesn't get sent regularly (well, actually it does) many of the successful sends required the climber to devote several seasons of every weekend pounding on it...

 

Think what you want...i lived there, and i've seen it...there was no active chipping on scarface after it was climbed...whole lotta brushing though...

[archenemy]

If you Spraycrete over a climb, will that make it harder?

[catbirdseat]

Does anyone have pictures of Lower Malemute?

[ashw_justin]

No there's no chipping it's just these rugged sportos with chiselfingers. I hear they can ice climb with their bare hands!

[Dr_Flash_Amazing]

THEN A FUCK FACE NAMED CORY DID DELIBERATELY CHIP A HOLD ON IT, making it easier

 

 

That dude used to live in Southern Oregon, and he had a gas-powered roto-hammer and a chronic chipping problem. Anyone who's been to Rattlesnake has no doubt experienced his handiwork, including an awesome route featuring chunks of rock Sika'd onto a face for holds (who doesn't like painful, awkward crimpers covered in slippery glue? ), and chipped pockets within reach of useable handholds.

[LUCKY]

Rattlesnake like in Leavenslab???

[bwrts]

north bend?

[hemp22]

There's a crag down in Southern Oregon called Rattlesnake. He's not referring to Rattlesnake Rock in Leavenworth.

[Dr_Flash_Amazing]

There's a crag down in Southern Oregon called Rattlesnake. He's not referring to Rattlesnake Rock in Leavenworth.

 

Astute, and correct. There are some fun lines there, but most of the stuff over 5.11 is a glue- and/or chip-job, quite unnecessarily.

[Dru]

if yo chipped off your fingers with a chisel it would make climbing MUCh harder.