Alpinfox Posted September 8, 2005 Share Posted September 8, 2005 How was scarface altered after Franklin climbed it? Several of the pockets have gotten deeper/larger from "overuse"...nothing deliberate... Rudy, I'd like to see/hear your evidence for your "nothing deliberate" claim cause it sure sounds like bullshit to me. A pocket on a 5.14 route getting 50% bigger due to "overuse"? B.S. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted September 8, 2005 Share Posted September 8, 2005 whatever pax...go climb the trade routes there...they are constantly changing...an example is churning...lower on the route, a nice edge pulled off revealing an even bigger two finger gas pocket behind it...higher on the route, some footholds fell off making it harder, then the gas pocket lip broke making it harder...THEN A FUCK FACE NAMED CORY DID DELIBERATELY CHIP A HOLD ON IT, making it easier...but, you see routes do change there from traffic...while scarface doesn't get sent regularly (well, actually it does) many of the successful sends required the climber to devote several seasons of every weekend pounding on it... Think what you want...i lived there, and i've seen it...there was no active chipping on scarface after it was climbed...whole lotta brushing though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archenemy Posted September 8, 2005 Share Posted September 8, 2005 If you Spraycrete over a climb, will that make it harder? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted September 8, 2005 Author Share Posted September 8, 2005 Does anyone have pictures of Lower Malemute? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashw_justin Posted September 8, 2005 Share Posted September 8, 2005 No there's no chipping it's just these rugged sportos with chiselfingers. I hear they can ice climb with their bare hands! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted September 9, 2005 Share Posted September 9, 2005 THEN A FUCK FACE NAMED CORY DID DELIBERATELY CHIP A HOLD ON IT, making it easier That dude used to live in Southern Oregon, and he had a gas-powered roto-hammer and a chronic chipping problem. Anyone who's been to Rattlesnake has no doubt experienced his handiwork, including an awesome route featuring chunks of rock Sika'd onto a face for holds (who doesn't like painful, awkward crimpers covered in slippery glue? ), and chipped pockets within reach of useable handholds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LUCKY Posted September 10, 2005 Share Posted September 10, 2005 Rattlesnake like in Leavenslab??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwrts Posted September 10, 2005 Share Posted September 10, 2005 north bend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hemp22 Posted September 10, 2005 Share Posted September 10, 2005 There's a crag down in Southern Oregon called Rattlesnake. He's not referring to Rattlesnake Rock in Leavenworth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted September 12, 2005 Share Posted September 12, 2005 There's a crag down in Southern Oregon called Rattlesnake. He's not referring to Rattlesnake Rock in Leavenworth. Astute, and correct. There are some fun lines there, but most of the stuff over 5.11 is a glue- and/or chip-job, quite unnecessarily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted September 13, 2005 Share Posted September 13, 2005 if yo chipped off your fingers with a chisel it would make climbing MUCh harder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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