Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 17
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Posted

Yeah and it was just that that resulted in a pilot being fined. Good luck finding a chopper pilot that doesn't know about the legislation now.

Posted
i know nelson-lewis used heli to get to the base.

 

All the more reason to do it without the heli... FIRST HELI-FREE WINTER ASCENT! fruit.gif

 

it might have been so they could get their 8 days of supplies and recreational chemicals in to the base of the route. since you'll be sending it free in a day you won't have that problem. tongue.gif

Posted
i already did hike it- no big deal now. i am talking winter.

 

Jim and Kit resorted to the chopper on about their 8th winter attempt - prior goes had been on foot. I've been in there 3 times on foot in winter; once when John and Perry and I climbed the N couloir (about 7 hrs approach; a bit thru and above the basin on small snowshoes); twice for attempts on the NEB (both easy day approaches - once failed at the N face traverse 1/3 way up, the other time had to abandon a bivy and run for the valley at 3 a.m. when it started to snow hard on our bivy right at the bottom, on the initial bypass traverse - didn't want to drown in spindrift - chickenshit, actually...). several other parties have been in, on foot in winter, to try the Heart of Darkness. also Arctic Wing obviously got done au pied...

 

i kinda agree with your assessment that a lot of it can be drytooled, but that applies most to the upper sections. don't underestimate the lower part of the route. Joe Buszowski took a (short) fall on the 5.8 steppy section low down, above our first (only) bivy i backed off the pitch leading to the rightwards traverse (which Joe then led), and we eventually quit when i led a long dihedral with one piece at about 15m and nothing else in the entire ropelength - and no belay to be found, despite digging at every possibility for the upper 10m or 15m of the pitch. eventually i simply had to climb back down...

maybe bolts aren't such a bad idea...

 

have fun,

cheers,

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...