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heli ride


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i know nelson-lewis used heli to get to the base.

 

All the more reason to do it without the heli... FIRST HELI-FREE WINTER ASCENT! fruit.gif

 

it might have been so they could get their 8 days of supplies and recreational chemicals in to the base of the route. since you'll be sending it free in a day you won't have that problem. tongue.gif

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i already did hike it- no big deal now. i am talking winter.

 

Jim and Kit resorted to the chopper on about their 8th winter attempt - prior goes had been on foot. I've been in there 3 times on foot in winter; once when John and Perry and I climbed the N couloir (about 7 hrs approach; a bit thru and above the basin on small snowshoes); twice for attempts on the NEB (both easy day approaches - once failed at the N face traverse 1/3 way up, the other time had to abandon a bivy and run for the valley at 3 a.m. when it started to snow hard on our bivy right at the bottom, on the initial bypass traverse - didn't want to drown in spindrift - chickenshit, actually...). several other parties have been in, on foot in winter, to try the Heart of Darkness. also Arctic Wing obviously got done au pied...

 

i kinda agree with your assessment that a lot of it can be drytooled, but that applies most to the upper sections. don't underestimate the lower part of the route. Joe Buszowski took a (short) fall on the 5.8 steppy section low down, above our first (only) bivy i backed off the pitch leading to the rightwards traverse (which Joe then led), and we eventually quit when i led a long dihedral with one piece at about 15m and nothing else in the entire ropelength - and no belay to be found, despite digging at every possibility for the upper 10m or 15m of the pitch. eventually i simply had to climb back down...

maybe bolts aren't such a bad idea...

 

have fun,

cheers,

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