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Middle Sister, this time of year, how difficult?


dougnlaura

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I am just a hiker/backpacker, not a technical climber. I've heard that Middle Sister is a non-technical climb this time of year, can any one give me some info. about climbing from Obsidian TH, which I want to do next week? We will probably just take our time and camp up near Obsidian Cliffs somewhere, maybe Sunshine Meadow, and try to summit the next day. I have summited South Sister in the past and found it strenuous, but not bad really. I didn't have to walk on any snow, which I prefer since I have no cramp-ons. Any info. would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

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Many on this site would call it "non-technical", but consider the source!!! After all, this is primarily a "climbing resource". What one considers non-tech, or easy, is another person's everest.

Not at all trying to spark any sort of debate on this... just trying to keep you from getting in over your head. crazy.gif

 

But, to answer your question, it's really just a hard hike. Since you don't have crampons, you will likely want to approach the saddle between middle and north (collier glacier??? sorry, can't think of the name off the top of my head). Taking this route you will very likely have to cross snow (the glacier, duh) but it should be low enough angle that it won't be a prob.

Toward the top there are a few steep and loose spots that if you slipped/slid might really suck. Be aware of that. The route is easy to follow though... just look for the obvious line and boot track (practically a trail to the top).

Have fun. thumbs_up.gif

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... oh yeah, camp at Arrowhead lake. It's on a buttress above Sunshine and offers good views and is pretty quiet. From Sunshine, just continue on the normal climbers trail gaining about 500' further up (you are climbing away from the cliff edge and toward the mountain). Once you gain the platue's elevation, cut back and start going toward the cliff. After about 1/3 mile you will see the small lake shaped like an arrowhead (wow, imagine that).

Been there many times and it's always WAY quieter than Sunshine.

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The summit is not within the limited access area, but you must travel through the limited access area to get there if starting from the Obsidian TH and therefore might need a permit. If you're camping in the special zone, then you definitely need a permit. If you're just passing through on a day trip then you might not.

 

A couple years back I called the Mckenzie ranger station and they said I didn't need a special permit to pass through the limited access area on my way to the summit. Their reasoning was that they don't require PCT hikers to get a permit to pass through so why should they make me. I just filled out the free self-issue wilderness permit at the TH and hit the trail.

 

Unfortunately I bumped into Larry Tha Tool near the Obsidian Cliffs and he didn't see it that way. He copied my permit info and a few days later I got a particularly nasty letter from the manager of the ranger station.

 

Freekin forest circus. Even they can't keep all the paperwork straight cantfocus.gif

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