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[TR] Toppling Tower- North Face 8/20/2005


gyselinck

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Climb: Toppling Tower-North Face

 

Date of Climb: 8/20/2005

 

Trip Report:

I had planned on climbing the East Buttress of Big Snow, but sketchy partners bailed. At last minute I phoned Cook. Toppling Tower came to mind…We ended up working a line up the north face.

 

Made plans to meet at Snoqualmie Pass at 6:00am, both not realizing that meant waking up at 4:30 until the following morning. Crap! We reached the katwalk, and then the lakes, then bumblebee pass all in good time. I told cook not to worry about filling up water, fore we could fill up at Edds Lake. Nobody ever goes there and I didn’t mind drinking straight from the lake.

 

As soon as we rounded Bumblebee Pass I was astonished to see 4 hikers decked out in fishing gear heading toward Edd's. As we approached them one man yelled out. “Are you guys going to be quite at the lakes?” I found this odd and asked why; where he went on to explain that the fish were native. (Like that would matter!) I quickly challenged this remark and asked him where he thought they came. “Nature,” he said. Huh, I guess fish have wings.

 

The only known route ascends the S. face, and then traverses onto the W. Ridge. Being lazy and not wanting to walk through brush, we instead went to the N. Face. The whole climb was like a delicate dance. At one point we even had to climb a tree. Loose rock, dirt, moss, and vegetables describe the character of this route. Grade II, 5.7. On the summit we found a register which had one entry dated nearly 30 years earlier; October 17, 1976. We descended the “standard” route up, rappelling down the s. face. 4 scary raps with a single 60m rope did the trick.

 

We then returned to our (my) gear stash at the outlet of the lake to find nothing remaining but candy rappers. WTF…Here we were a mile from the furthest trail at a lake rarely visited and my car keys, drivers license, headlamp, sunscreen, and phone were all missing. It turned out those dumb shit fisherman thought that we accidentally left our gear and taken it. They took all the goods, but left my food (hanging in a tree) and trash rappers. I was extremely pissed, tracked them down on the trail only to learn they had handed all my stuff to a ranger. I then had to run around Ridge Lake and find the ranger, who gave me my stuff and basically said it was my fault for leaving it in the open. Who would have thought…

 

Some pics. Cook may have some better ones.

 

Toppling Tower from Edds Lake:

6146Toppling_Tower-med.jpg

 

Cook bravely leading the scarry first pitch, shows route characteristics:

6146pitch_1-med.jpg

 

Summit register:

6146summit_register-med.jpg

 

Gear Notes:

good selection of different size pieces

 

Approach Notes:

lot of miles, little climb

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yeah, they asked where we were headed and I specifically pointed to the tower. (they thought toppling tower was chimney rock yellaf.gif) They said they were going to watch us climb it. They were just a bunch of old idiots. I pretty much left my stuff right below the tower too. And we were up there the hole time knocking big rocks off, yelling on belay, off belay, and crap like that making lots of sound. So it was pretty obvious that we were still up there. But they just thought that my stuff fell out of my pack. It was kind of funny, they took all things like headlamp, car keys, sunscreen, etc, but left the pile of candy rapers and empty water bottles, plus my food which was in a tree.

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This photo was taken looking straight down at Gyselinck at the top of the first pitch. From here, climb class 4 trees and heather to the belay.

3146top_of_pitch_1-med.jpg

 

Gyselinck leading the crux third pitch

3146start_of_pitch_3-med.jpg

 

Toppling tower. The descent is via the obvious gully in the center. The route Becky describes traverses left along the tree band and then ascends the ridge that is blocked by the tall tree.

3146untitled3-med.jpg

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No drugs on this trip Lyger, but it does sound like we went climbing in fairy tale land. Note: Gyselinck's hot date was not Cook, it was his mom, but she bailed. Also: we did not go climbing in fairy tale land, it was actually tough guy land. Those landmarks were mislabled in the Beckey guide. It is actually, hell mountain, flaming feces creek, stinging of death pass, and the tower of infinite pain and moss.

Edited by cook
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Yes deadbeat, those were all spelling errors in the guide, anyone could have mad that mistake.

 

Knotzen, the candy wrappers were left by the fishermen, you see they raped gyselinck's stuff, but not my wrappers.

 

Deadbeat?! No, I'm just an editor with a keen eye and a sharp, incisive, inexhaustible wit.

 

OTOH, I could in fact be a self-deluded deadbeat. bigdrink.gif

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