Darrington rock climbing

[mattp]

Roads and trails leading to Darrington rock climbs have seen significant improvement this year. In June we brushed additional parking for the trail up to the Comb Buttress. In July, the Washington Trails Association/North Face/Access Fund trail project continued with the construction of a fabulous trailbed across what was a mossy and treacherous talus field up near the base of Three O'Clock Rock and there was also some drainage improvement in a muddy area near the start of the trail. In August, the contractor doing brush cutting along the side of the main road to the Three O'Clock Rock trailhead was persuaded to run his tree eating machine a mile up the road toward Exfoliation Dome, and the Forest Service gave their approval and even contributed toward the cost of that effort. Last weekend we filled potholes and repaired a couple of washouts on the road to the parking area for Green Giant Buttress and the well-known Dreamer route. This coming weekend, October 27-28,the Washington Trails Association (WTA) is running a trail project up there. The WTA is a volunteer trail maintenance group, not specifically oriented toward promoting climber-access, but this ongoing project has led to greatly improved access at Three O'Clock Rock. To participate, sign up at wta.org (from their main page, select "trail teams" and "schedule" or something like that.

[ScottP]

Matt,

IMO Darrington is the finest climbing area in the state, equalled only by WA Pass and the Enchantments for ambience and character. I sincerely appreciate the activism you have bestowed on the area.

Thanks.

Scott Presho

[mattp]

Thanks, but it hasn't just been me. Some people who post here have turned out for work parties (ErikN, ChucK and Andy Fitz to name a few), and there are several Darrington fanatics who have been quite active up there but who do not post here and who would prefer to remain anonymous.

[offwidthclimber]

Kudos to Matt and all those involved!

This is excellent news to hear, especially since access has been a questionable issue in the region.

Darrington is a fantastic place to climb. Hopefully I'll be able to make it over that way again this next spring/summer.

Cheers.

 

[Walter_Burt]

Matt,

Ditto on Scott's message. I've only been up there once, but was very impressed with the climbing, setting and the time and effort you have spent promoting "quality of climbing" issues. Thanks

WB

[mattp]

Bring your chainsaw if you want to climb in Darrington. I'm not kidding. 4 1/2 miles up the Clear Creek road a 3' hemlock blocked the WTA work party this morning, so the project was "called" for today and it may be a few days or even a couple of weeks before somebody goes up there and turns it into firewood.

[mattp]

The log has been cut away, though some unattended firewood does remain there. After three days with no rain, the rock at Darrington was dry and the temperatures very pleasant November 9.

[Bronco]

As of last sunday (4/14) the road was pretty washed out at 1.75 miles but passable with a 4x4 pretty easily, but dont bother because at 2 miles in, 3 sizable trees block the road completly and another 1/4 mile later the road is covered with 1-3'of avalanche debris??? Looks like it was pretty stormy winter up there.

[Uncle_Tricky]

Hey Bronco, wondering how big the downed logs are? I'm thinking about bringing the chainsaw along next week. Also, how much (depth/width/composition)avy debris is across the road? Would it be possible to clear a passable path with a couple people hours of labor? Thanks!

[Stefan]

The trees are doable with a chainsaw.

 

I was up there three weeks ago. The avalanche debris (mostly snow) was about 25 feet deep then. After that the road was covered with about 3 feet of snow. I would definitely expect 2.5 feet of snow on the road all the way from the avalanche debris and onward right now......

[Bronco]

I'd agree with Stephan's assesment of the conditions up there. Have a go at it and let us know what you find.

[Uncle_Tricky]

Hmmm. 2.5 feet of snow on the road, and 25 foot deep piles of avy debris? Sounds like a waiting a few weeks might be advisable, especially since my monster truck is in the shop right now...

 

[ 04-22-2002, 10:21 AM: Message edited by: Uncle Tricky ]

[mattp]

My friend "the safety man" went to Darrington yesterday, and he said they encountered "miles of snow wallowing." Being the fanatic he is, and having an inexperienced partner who didn't know any better, they perservered through the snow and the drizzle and when they go to Three O'Clock Rock, they found many of the routes to be dry.

[Uncle_Tricky]

Oops--posted this info on another thread, but guess I'll put it here.

 

As of this week, the road is passable by car til about 2 miles before the three o'clock rock trailhead, where there's still maybe 1.5 feet of snow on the road in a few shady sections. Before that there are some piles of avy debris to negotiate, but I watched the Dukes of Hazard when I was a kid, so these were no problem.

 

The hike up to three o clock is snow-free until you get to the open rocky area below the slabs. Snow and avy junk cover the entire length of the first pitch of many climbs, including Total Soul and Silent Running. The bottom of the rock is really dirty from the dirt and mud left behind by the melting avy debris, but once you get up a bit, the rock is dry and clean and nice.

[Dave_Schuldt]

Do you need 4 wheel drive to get over the junk?

[Uncle_Tricky]

Nope. Just don't pull a Roscoe P. Coltrane driving manuever and you should be fine...

 

[mattp]

The snow has melted from the Clear Creek Road (the road to all the published Darrington climbs, and the Forest Service has repaired most of the roadway damage so a normal car can now make it in there to the Darrington climbs (a low rider probably not). As of 6/2/02, snow remains at the base of almost all the routes (bring hiking boots and an ice axe if you're going for Dreamer!), but the rock was generally dry on this fair weather weekend.

[Dave_Schuldt]

Jeff and I were at 3:00 rock, bit of snow at base. Matt, what did you clinb or did Dave W call you. We saw him there along with sishushumi (?)