Sierra moderate alpine rock suggestions?

[crazy_t]

Will have a free day based out of Bishop soon with a couple of friends in good shape but w/little multipitch etc. experience. Was hoping to find a nice moderate (up to 5.5?)outing that could be done in 8-9 hours max from Bishop and back (including driving and hiking/climbing). Can anyone point me to some good ones? Ideal climb would include 1-2 hour approach on foot, 500-1000' vertical of 3rd-mid 5th class, at 8000'+. Thanks in advance for your suggestions!

Edited July 23, 2005 by crazy_t

[J_Fisher]

I've got it on good authority the SE Buttress of Cathedral is stellar.

 

You might look into the E Butt of Whitney as well.

[Off_White]

Down by Lone Pine, the N. Ridge on Lone Pine Peak is a fun outing.

[Rad]

Bouldering in the buttermilks w/Sharma and

 

Call Wilson's Eastside sports in Bishop and ask them some questions. That's the local climbing/backpacking store. They should have ideas for you.

 

Whitney and Tuolumne (Cathedral) will involve a lot of quality time

[Mark_Husbands]

8000 ft. is only a little above trailhead height for the better trailheads (the bad ones start in the sagebrush).

 

East Arete of Mt. Haeckel out of Lake Sabrina is neat. Class 4, maybe easy Class 5. Very near Bishop. If you're willing to do a day approach then many, many options open up.

 

Further north, the West Ridge of Mt. Conness offers many pitches of class 5 to 5.6 climbing and is often done in a day, though I recall longer than 2 hours to the base. North Ridge of Conness is another option and can be reached over North Peak (via N. Ridge or one of three snow couloirs) or from N. Peak Conness saddle (I think). Day trip either way.

 

Mt. Humphreys (out of N. Lake) is a proud peak with several moderates. Summit block is class 4 from all directions. With a truck some routes, such as E. Arete (rumored very good) can be reached on dirt roads. Not sure how long the hike is.

 

Mt. Sill's Swiss Arete is the perhaps the king of the alpine 5.6s, but I would prefer to camp one night. In the Palisades (N. Fork Big Pine Crk) one of my favorite places.

 

The Cathedral peak route is excellent but doesn't really have (what I think of as) High Sierra flavor; it's a cockscomb type feature unique to the Tuolomne area. The North Ridge of Lone Pine Peak is well south of Bishop but is pretty spot on to your parameters, and Lone Pine Peak is a big mountain in an area with typical high sierra terrain.

 

I've climbed a number of moderate classics in the 5.7-9 range and would be happy to suggest some others via PM. Moynier/Fiddler book can be bought or perused at Wilson's for solid info.

[crazy_t]

Thanks folks. Some of the suggestions seem like bigger days than what I'm looking for. Any mini-classics? I know the place is sick with classic rock, I've only been there once so all help is appreciated. Cheers!

[chris]

I'd recomend the Northeast Gully of Mt. Laurel (11,812 ft), 5.2.

Drive time, Bishop to Convict Lake: 45 minutes (all on pavement)

Aproach time: 45 minutes

Climbing: 3,500 ft (4-6 hours)

Descent time: 2-4 hours

Total: 8:15 - 12:15

 

This is a great climb that I've done twice. It is listed in Chris McNamara's "High Sierra Climbing" and rates 3 stars out of 5; and also in Peter Croft's "The Good, the Great, and the Awesome" and rates 'great' (2 out of 3 stars). The times I listed above were combined from those two sources. Personally, I've climbed it in 3:30 car to car without too much trouble, so the times above seem very conservative.

 

With the limitations you described, this could be the perfect climb. PM me if you want more information!

[crazy_t]

actually that SE buttress of cathedral is looking fairly sweet. How long do you guys estimate the drive to be from Bishop to the TH there?

[crazy_t]

that one looks pretty ideal, mtnfreak. I'm going to look into it.

[Poser]

Drive time is about 2 hours at the most (Bishop to Trailhead). Approach is approximately 1 - 1.5 hours. 6-7 pitches of 5.6 great rock... If you really want a classic moderate route with an easy drive time and approach, this is the one. Formerly from Mammoth and would strongly recommend Cathedral vs. Laurel (however, that one is listed by Peter Croft as a classic as well).

[jordop]

On a weekday at 7 am expect to arrive at the base of Cathedral with about 6-10 other parties. If you're quick you'd be better off doing it in the late afternoon.

[Alex]

SE buttress of cathedral is indeed a nice climb. its hard to get lost on the approach, its a fairly short and easy route, but the views from the top are noteworthy! Also its not so high or strenuous that the altitude will kick your ass, unlike Conness!!