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Posted

 

Does anyone have a good suggestion for a nice day alpine climb for this weekend? Lookin for some easy rock (up to 5.7 or 5.8), with not too much snow to worry about. I just want to get out and enjoy the Cascades and not think about work at all.

Any suggestions welcome,

Me

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Posted

If you can get a permit for Boston Basin check out the East Ridge Direct route of Forbidden Peak. I did it last weekend and it was really enjoyable. It allowed me to not think of work for the two days we were out and several long stretches since we got back.

One small snow gully and some loose 3rd and 4th class stuff on the approach. You will need crampons and an axe for the snow. It's solid, but we didn't need to rope up for it. The climbing was mostly 5.7 with a great 5.8 crux pitch before the 5.2 summit ramp.

Enjoy!

[This message has been edited by ehmmic (edited 08-29-2001).]

Posted

ehmmic, a question about the East Ridge direct... the little tower you climb that you need to rap of off (the one just before the 5.8 crux) - the route we took up that involved 20 or 30 feet of slightly overhanging climbing on small face holds. Very pumpy - definitely seemed more than 5.8. Is there an easier way?

just curious...

Posted

Honestly I don't remember that pitch being that hard. I didn't lead it though, so perhaps that made a difference in my memory. Let me think about it some more.

8/31

Philfort - Thought about it, looked a the topo and pics. I still don't remember this pitch being too difficult. I vaguely remember taking the path that robertm describes. It was a long day. And we did that pitch just before a lunch break. I was more focused on getting through it so I could stop to eat. Sorry.

[This message has been edited by ehmmic (edited 08-31-2001).]

Posted

S.W.Rib of S. Early Winter Spire. First pitch is 5.8, everything else is easier. Every pitch has 5.2 or above except one. Look at the red Beckey (not the old red one, but the one that came out about five years ago; smooth cover). Great topo. Nelson/Potterfield wrote it up too, but without topo. You won't get lost with Beckey's topo. I promise you'll like it, and not encounter as many people as you would on the Beckey route of L. Bell.

John Sharp

Posted

Me,

It depends how nice/brutal you want your day climbs to be. North Face of Burgandy 5.8 is a nice/brutal day climb that entails use of a full day. For something a little more chill maybe try Vesper Peak, the Tooth, Ingalls Peak East Ridge and tons of stuff in the Liberty Bell group.

Enjoy,

Us

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