Chalk - you've got to be kidding me...

[el jefe]

i'm saving up a couple of extra boxes of chalk for my annual visit to beacon...the more chalk there, the better...

[billcoe]

if you dislike buckets of chalk dumped at the base of five gallon buckts or some other warmup you should warmup elsewhere and find some obscure classics rather than strutting your prowess on a heavily trafficked visible route, or for that matter climb some new routes, prolly no chalk there, or yet another suggestion, climb on the non chalked holds.

 

Hey! I do that as a game up on the Pussy traverse at the Butte, but it still is extreme yoinkage that I have to breath that crap cause every beginner is taught that they need shoes, harness and chalkbag to start climbing and so they chalkup the 5.5 traverse where they are barely off the ground. Sometimes I go up high to avoid the stuff when it's bad.

 

No one is talking about working at your personal max. In fact, to JH's credit, he and I once watched some poor young lady, like a Slovakian chick, do the 5.5 pitch on SE corner, chalked the crap out of it. Not only did JH not say a work to her, but when she got stuck higher up at the slab pitch as the sun was starting to get low: and the chicks partner couldn't hear her yelling that she needed to be lowered, but Jh soloed up and pointed out he moves and helped the communication process.

 

Now for a random chalk pic from last Sunday. I have a new "Trad" chalkbag. I left the price tag on it. Chalked up on the ground and then totally forgot about it afterwards. The locks get real good right in here too.

 

[pink]

bill, i can see the outline of your scalp through you hair.

[ivan]

bill, i can see the outline of your scalp through you hair.

you shoulda seen him 'fore he went home - he looked like al jolson!

...least, that's what my hazy recollection of the day can summon...

[billcoe]

bill, i can see the outline of your scalp through you hair.

 

What hair? I need me one of those green things on Jimmys head.

 

 

 

Al Jolsen! Nice call. Wish I had a pic of that! Sometimes when I'm out there sweatin and digging in the dirt and moss, it just coats you. I'll forget about the dirt and show up at home lookin like I'd been working in the coal mine at Sommerset all day. Wife stares and finally says "OMG, where the hell have you been all day?"

 

"Uhhh: climbing".

[markd]

looks like a good route bill on some aesthetic gorge andesite. is this the fa?

[billcoe]

looks like a good route bill on some aesthetic gorge andesite. is this the fa?

 

Yes it is Mark, Ujahn took the picture. Glad to see J.O.s hand still on the rope! If you look carefully past the bright shiny scalp, you might still be able to see the price tag on my new blue Trad chalkbag back there.